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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos
Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks
Topic
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Date |
User
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Tassy's hardest trad climb |
29-Apr-2014 At 11:13:03 AM |
benny g
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Message |
A few points:
I can't see this being a popular thing to do for a few reasons so forget the drama queen antics CJ! Most people don't own and dont know how to place pitons (thats got to limit things!), and it sounds scary!, 99% would rather clip the bolts. Is it going to become popular? NO, Will anyone be able to see the peg scars, NOT likely while they are climbing a grade 29 to peek inside a thin crack.
As for the serpentine comparision, jeez your stretching analogys here!! Serpentine is about half bolts and half trad and was done by HB as a minimalist bolting effort (using available trad) and climbed in fine style. Pleasant Screams was bolted as a sport route with no effort to use any gear. So the 'serpentine of tasmania' is quite a stretch, probably a route like Murdoch the horse F##ker at Nowra is a closer match for style. Though it doesn't have the same marketing ring about it :) Can u get my point though, its not the climbing but how it was bolted and climbed that affects things, would anyone give a hoot if someone did what Adam did at Nowra, NO.
Back to Pleasant screams direct, Sam put in 21 u bolts plus a belay, thats 46 holes plus cleaned off heaps of flakes, funny how thats fine by you cj ! but put 2 pegs in (then remove them and leave a slightly smoother crack inside) and its all crazy business by your reckoning. So what Adam did on PSD is pretty minimal disturbance to the route in the scheme of things, I agree it wouldn't be appropriate on Serpentine as Serpentine was a minimal bolting/impact style from the start whereas PSD wasn't.
Thanks Ben
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