Siege, It was a valid ascent just like a brown point, a bean point or climbing a tree with an ice axe and crampons. If you make it to the top then you made an ascent. What you are arguing about is style, and which style is better.
The current pinnacle style of the day for trad climbing is to solo followed by climbing from the ground, onsite, placing the gear as you lead. Beyond these two styles you begin to head into a murky and confusing world of the hierarchy of bad style. You can also call this fashion... making you kids, fashion victims.
The use of fixed protection is not traditional climbing, I dont care how many classics at araps have pins and bolts in them, once you clip the pin or bolt you have made a choice of perceived safety over style. This should not take away from any ascent. But it is not the best style.
Having never placed a bolt for rock climbing and never pounded a pin for a trad climbing, I'm a casual observer just looking on in disgust at you fashion victims with your egos and piles of pointless and ignorant word.
I would like to be impartial but I'm not, CJ didn't clip the fixed pro, making his ascent a trad climb, Adam clipped pins but not the bolts making his ascent similar to just skipping bolts for fun, or only clipping the carrots on a blue mountains classic rather than the shiny new bolt next to it, for a more pure ascent. This is not trad climbing, but it sure is rock climbing, so CJ you are incorrect in saying this in not an ascent, it is an ascent of an eliminate sport route that had pitons placed on rap and gear placed on lead and the bolts skipped... what a pile of shit. I wish Bob was still alive, he would have made up a story fit for kings, about how this was a classic moment in the universe. Adams ascent is no more trad climbing that running down a wombat, chopping off its head and skull f---ing it... classic. Keep up the good work kids.
Please forgive my expression in my first rant, that one was written sitting in the street drinking wine living the good life and passing time. |