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Tassy's hardest trad climb 25-Apr-2014 At 12:42:49 PM johny

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"I agree with Ben, smells like a trad conspiracy here against another climber to make u look good. " Well I have no idea what this is suppose to mean but a trad conspiracy sounds pretty cool! Firstly, these little discussions are suppose to be constructive, so lets not create some straw-man that I am somehow singling Adam out because I want to be "king of trad" or some bs. That said, Ill move into my critique.

It is to me just plain stupid to make a big show about RE-climbing a bolted route with the intention of placing gear and then HAMMERING IN PITONS ANYWAY. I do not think there is a precedent for this. I think most people find it retarded to say the least. I have told Adam as much. This doesnt mean that I hate him as a person or it somehow invalidates every climb he has done. However, I am really really against this style of ascent (i hesitate to use the word style considering Adam is the only practitioner).

The blindingly obvious difference between Hubris and what Adam did on PSD is that my route can actually be lead on-sight, ground up, placing gear... LIKE A TRAD ROUTE! This is why I said I led it mostly ground up; To highlight the difference between working a route for days after already red-pointing to make sure you dont fall (like adam did) and being able to go from the ground placing gear because the gear is that good. I ended up rapping over it once and cleaning out some loose rock I also spent an hour or so figuring out the crux which was way harder than I thought it would be.

I would almost think PSD led placing gear to be thirty if Adam hammered in the pitons on lead. I bet my left nut he didnt. Rock climbing is in general a waste of time. Adam has invented a way of climbing that makes people who love to waste their time question Adam's grip on reality.

I give a hoot because pitons went out of style in the 70s. Its clean climbing now. His use of pitons automatically justifies it for everyone else. If everyone else follows his lead, there will be alot of routes destroyed. Therefore, it is a bad practice. I could, for one of many examples, rap into deeper waters(or any other route he bolted) and hammer in as many pitons or whatever else gear I want to and then lead it and chop the bolts. He actually encouraged me to do this! Rest assured, I will not be doing this. This attitude is a bit dangerous I think.

"dissing" has nothing to do with it. I find it very strange how fragile climbers ego's are! One disagreement and all the sudden its boo-hoo water works time. Although Adam never got as bent out of shape when I called him as his mates on chockstone! Have fun out there boys.