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Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Tassy's hardest trad climb 20-Apr-2014 At 11:09:46 PM johny

Message

On 18/04/2014 Benny G wrote:
>I agree with Simey on the vid quality, tho wasnt brutal enough to tear
>it to shreds, as its good to see any oz climbing filmed as theres so little
>of it.
>interesting news in hotown is theres another new hardest trad route, pleasant
>screams direct on trad at grade 30, it also eliminates bolts and is more
>of a headpoint like cj's.
>Benny

Yeah well its not an entry into goatfest or any big film, its just to show people some of the climbing with a quick editing job. Simey was just baiting me, big surprise!

About green pointing pleasant screams direct.... Last time I checked Adam had pulled out the piton(s?) next to the bolts and has not sent it. Maybe I am out of the loop. But if he did send it with or without hammering in more pitons it would not change the grade! How does clipping a piton instead of a bolt make the climb harder?

Also, Hubris was led mostly ground up. The gear is good and falls are safe. It crosses a sport climb that unfortunately has bolts by the crack. Pleasant Screams Direct has very little gear except for the bolts!. After weeks(months?) of top roping the route and searching for gear placements Adam decided to hammer in pitons anyway. Basically PSD does not exist as any kind of "trad" route. Its exists as Adam's fantasy at the moment and I hope it stays that way.

You should climb PSD if you havent already! And Hubris! Or maybe any of the other trad routes that actually exist. Thanks for the input Ben.
cj