Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Tassy's hardest trad climb 11-Apr-2014 At 10:15:06 AM Cam McKenzie

Message

(http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2014/01/14/New+Routes+and+News+2014?focusedCommentId=328008155#comment-328008155):

Holy Moly! Just sent the best route of my life. At the Star Factory. Its all gear. All placed on lead on the redpoint. None of the bolts of any of the routes on this cliff were clipped for the ascent. I strongly suggest not clipping them for future ascents, although it would be a great climb to go up Hubris into the finish of Simply the Best. Many options with link ups on this cliff. The Star Factory is still cranking out some amazing routes!!!
***** Hubris 30m 29
Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past STB. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.
John Fischer, April 03 2014