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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Burly Toru Nakajima on Grit 30-Aug-2012 At 4:38:39 PM davidn

Message

Sorry, but...

Can you really 'onsight' aid? It seems a bit like onsighting boulders. If you have all day to hang around looking and working out what to do before attempting (the next move, or all the moves), it's not really an onsight in the true sense is it? Or am I wrong and some aid has to be done as quickly as possible else you'll fall off like a pumped sport climber? That's not a slam at you M9 (though we've done a fair bit of that in the past :), it's just a comment that the definitions that apply to one style of climbing can sometimes be a bit of a retrofit to others.

Yes, boulderers suck and adventure is dead. But frankly, declaring you're having the best time is narcissistic. The kid's clearly loving it, or he wouldn't be by himself in a strange country going nuts on hard and dangerous highballs with the occasional belayer he's never met before... (and flashing some of them, but I agree that calling it an onsight when there's a clear line of chalk on the holds makes it a bit suss).

Ignoring all the armchair philosophy, it's great to look at these videos and ponder what can be learnt from them. Toru's footwork on the slabs and general composure are absolutely amazing. No wonder he flashed Brad Pitt (a notoriously sequency and technical V10). The recent video of Jan Hojer was equally inspiring - his use of momentum is just sublime.