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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Rock Climbing Basics: Belaying the Leader 29-Jun-2012 At 3:15:52 PM Nayda

Message

On 28/06/2012 simey wrote:
>Very ordinary instructional video. It might have sufficed if it was set
>indoors, but for an outdoor scenario it was seriously lacking...
>
>- No helmet for the belayer.
>- No double-checking between climber and belayer.
>- No explanation regarding the concerns/benefits of where you stand in
>relation to the cliff and why you might change your position accordingly.
>- No mention of concerns with regard weight differences between climber
>and belayer.
>- No mention of trad climbing considerations (ie. poor gear at start of
>route will affect belaying with regard where you stand or 'spotting' the
>climber).
>- No hints on how to limit getting belayers neck from looking up all the
>time.
>- No mention about clear communication between climber and belayer.
>
>

all that & given she's using an ATC, 'tunnelling' the rope, sliding the brake hand down the rope without another hand with a static grip on the brake-end as a backup. Was anyone else taught the old "four steps to give rope out, four steps to take it in" lead belay technique in their lead belay intro class? You wouldn't rap off without a backup on your brake, why would you put your mate's life in your hands without backing it up, especially when rope movement is more unpredictable, should ur mate take a surprise whip?