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Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Grit Ground Up 30-Apr-2012 At 12:28:22 PM Hagges

Message

On 30/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 29/04/2012 hagges wrote:
>
>>Grit ethics allow minimal use of pads.
>
>I know that all climbing is contrived, but that seems extra silly. There's
>an elegant simplicity to 20m high routes; feel free to stack as many pads
>as you like, we'll give you the tick anyway :)

Ha!! I'm sure you would.

I was seeing red after Davidn's comments. I wasn't thinking clearly when I wrote that.

It's still interesting as it is believed stacking the pads will reduce the E grade as it makes the landings a little safer. And so you wouldn't get the full tick just half a tick. However, if you were to solo an E7 with no pads onsight you may claim at least E8 maybe E10.

I remember, on Flying Buttress Direct HVS, kicking all my gear out on the crux roof with no way to down climb. Facing a fall onto a very steep slab which has already claimed one person and popped an eye out of another. I could only place some blind gear and haul myself over the roof. I then went a little of route and missed all the good holds only to find horrible, sweat producing, slopers. God knows how I did it but thankfully I did. I don't know what grade I could've claimed, in theory, but I'd say at least E1 maybe E3.

All I know is it was a bloody good character building experience to go through but I sure as well wouldn't like to go through it again.