Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User

Grit Ground Up 30-Apr-2012 At 9:29:10 AM anthonycuskelly

Message

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>Dalai: I get the sense you think I'm disrespecting the routes talking about
>them in V grade terms, because it ignores the history, aura, awe, mental
>side etc.
>
>But... all climbs have mental and technical difficulty associated with
>them (in some cases the one is very high and the other comparatively low).
> Talking about technical difficulty doesn't necessarily negate or ignore
>the mental aspect. Anyone who's watched Hard Grit realises how difficult
>the mental side can be! As do I. If you're talking about how physically
>difficult the moves are, what better grading system than V grades (or font)
>- because it's a grading system that focuses on technical difficulty.
>In this case, thanks to Dave J I have a much better idea of what Mr Caminati
>achieved - sending spoogy dangerous highball V3+s (over bad landings) ground
>up.
>
>As an aside, I note that even Adam Ondra can fall off a Font grade 5!
>
>Macca: I'm glad you got to mention Shai Hulud ;) Yes, we should all imbibe
>more cement and climb harder on sketchier things, myself included. I try
>to tackle all my climbs ground up; I've never top-roped a sketchy boulder
>problem (not to say I wouldn't). I'll let you know when I break the next
>ankle or leg (by PM - I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned
>on here and may indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)

There's a reason I stuck to easy cracklines in the Peaks...