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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Topic Date User
Grit Ground Up 29-Apr-2012 At 3:19:18 PM Dave J
Message
On 29/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>Thanks Dave J - was hoping you'd chime in! You did Braille Trail on a nail
>+ 1 other piece of pro didn't you?

The nail was good I thought, then there was a terrible piton wrapped in cardboard that was never going to stay in but took a bit of heat off the nail...and then there was a small cam atthe end of the traverse that I'd thought was ok. And I fell on it and it held. And, if you tucked your feet up, it would keep you off the ground. I may possibly have been the first person to actually take that fall.

>look away) How hard was Master's Edge up top? It looks like it doesn't
>ease up much!

I think the hardest move on Masters Edge is right at the top. Being quarried grit its much more about crimping on edges than smearing. Physically harder but more secure.

I gave up trying to understand the UK grading system. It seemed like 6c encompassed everything from easy moves up to stuff I couldn't even imagine doing and E7 stretched from 23 to 30. There was an E6 I did called Messiah that was harder than any of the E7s or 8s I tried. Best policy seemed to be just to see something that excited you and then hop on and see if you could climb it.

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