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Topic Date User

Grit Ground Up 29-Apr-2012 At 11:32:25 AM Dave J

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On 28/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>Given the tenuous nature of many grit routes and the often poor protection,
>having not played on TR first and gaining confidence you can do the moves
>is a big deal! The difference between beta or engram aquisition by attempting
>first under the less mentally challenging is huge!
>Arguing whether the crux is V8 or V10 is pretty lame. Yes a V8 crux is
>purely the difficulty of the moves, but a V8 crux way off the deck is a
>far more challenging proposition than one where your butt is a few inches
>from a pad...
Yes. To be honest there wouldn't be anything on those routes that you wouldn't find on a V3. But a very tenuous V3. The sort of thing you'll do one time and it wont be even vaguely strenuous, and the next time your foot will slip and you'll be off. And that sort of thing weighs on your mind if you stand to break all your legs. And even if someones told you where to stand, knowing how much of your weight you can put on a smear before it blows is much easier to work out on a top-rope than lead.
These routes would probably all get about 26 in australia, but then they would have had a few bolts stuck in them and be very different things. As weird as the UK grading system is, it comes way closer to doing justice to these routes than talking about V-grades.