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Guides/Partners for Mt Buffalo 24-Nov-2007 At 12:32:02 AM jgoding

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Hi Nik,

we're there the weekend (15/16) but from the looks of your dates that might be during the week?

You might also consider the following classic routes (which might provide a more gentle initiation to Mt Buffalo than Angels in my humble opinion):

The Initiation (The Hump) - 3 pitch 18*** (just the first 10m is 18, the rest 15 or less)
Cows with Guns (The Hump) 40m 19** great slab, very consistant. Abseil in to natural belay
Chickens in Choppers (The Hump) 45m 20** great slab climbing
Run Free with the Buffalo (The Hump) 40m 19** great slab climbing

Maharajah (17***) The Cathedral, great classic crack (2 pitches)
Sultan (20***) The Cathedral, great classic crack (2 or 3 pitches)
Fire in the Foothills (19*) The Cathedral, good 25m slab
Shell Shock (19*) The Cathedral, good 25m slab
Edge of Pleasure (21***), The Cathedral - one of the best arete climbs I've ever done. You can rap in and do the best (top) 40m pitch after doing either Shell Shock or Fire in the Foothills (better than doing the "tourist" walk, which is anything but. Careful pulling your ropes. Better if you leave an abseil rope in. I had some huge hassles trying to retrieve a rope here (lots of cracks / obstructions for it to get tangled in).
Bloodnok (17*) and Something (19*) under the bed is drooling are supposed to be good.
Sunrunner (22**) The Cathedral (lower tier)

Home James (20**) The Gorge - great unusual face climbing with a short steep crack bit.
Banana Blaze (18**) The gorge - good crack/layback

Peroxide Blonde (20***) The Horn - fantastic arete climbing. Careful getting to the first bolt, especially on a hot day as it can be a bit polished / slippery. The bolts are a bit spaced on this one too. Walk to the lookout and rap in is best.
The Pintle Left hand Varient (16***) 2 pitches (again - best to rap in from the look out, you can finish up Peroxide blonde as it's located below this).

*Just a reminder to take about 6-10 bolt plates as most of the bolts are "carrots" (no hangers). You can buy these in the climbing shops in Little Bourke Street (between Elizabeth & Queen Sts in town).

PS there is an update to the 2006 guide on the VCC website, along with some additional photo-topos which I hope will be useful (some good ones for the Cathedral in particular):
http://www.vicclimb.org.au/Site/index.php?location=publications

If you find any errors or have new routes / corrections etc please let me know and I'll update the update.

Great camping, swimming, hot showers.

Might see you up there. Enjoy your trip.