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Topic Date User

Deep Blue Sea on Eiger Nordwand - A Rematch 23-Jun-2014 At 5:18:28 PM PThomson

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>On 23/06/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Really? "Calibre of individual"? 330m mixed gr26...............sounds
>>like it might be a bit above your pay grade too ;)

So, considering you're "progression" of late (read that last sentence with plenty of sarcasm), I suppose that you trying the crux pitch of Siblings of the Sun is "a bit above your pay grade"? The comparison is apt.

I can climb harder than 26, I've ticked 26, and I've ticked 25 on pure trad. I've also climbed longer multipitches with sustained pitches of hard climbing, and with pitches at my limit. I've also done a great deal of alpine rock climbing in various locations, not the least of which was Kyrgyzstan.

Furthermore, Deep Blue Sea only has 2 pitches at 7b+, one of which is slab-to-face-climbing and the other is classic steep limestone with a boulder problem (next to a bolt). The rest of the pitches are spread out over a broad range. It ALSO only has an obligatory climbing grade of 7a (meaning that you can pull past the boulder problem crux move to climb the 7b+ pitch at 7a A0.

Let's face it, "calibre of individual" isn't merely defined by the climbing grade (though it is a factor), but also dealing with massive exposure (500m of air below you at Pitch 1), alpine conditions, efficient and effective multipitching and two-rope belaying, and hard climbing on trad gear, and -more importantly- demonstrated experience in the above areas.

On 23/06/2014 sbm wrote:
>
>Paul, I heard you were trying it with Ro? Did that partnership work out?

The partnership went well, and we did plenty of climbing in Ceuse, Verdon and around Interlaken, but as I said, the route isn't in condition (as the two of us found out the hard way), and I had to return for work. Ro also had committments with other climbers, and is due to head to Croatia (to meet up with his sister) early next month, so he wouldn't be around when the route went into season.

-Paul