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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Topic Date User
Europe Alps in July - Partner needed 2-Jun-2014 At 9:35:46 AM maxdacat
Message
On 1/06/2014 Mike Bee wrote:
>Hey all,
>
>Thanks for the PMs and thanks to Wendy for some advice. Part of my Mont
>Blanc idea is to see how I go at the higher altitude, but I have definitely
>heard it's very busy!
>
>A few more questions for those with experience of the area:
>- which campsite generally has the most climbers in it? There seems to
>be heaps thorughout the area
>- what kind of trad gear is required? I have a full double rack here,
>but it's heavy, so I'm a bit skeptical about flying over with all that
>stuff unless it's likely to be needed. Are there many wider features, will
>a #5 and #6 see much use?
>- Do people get many ice screws in over there in summer? I know in NZ
>they're a bit of a dubious piece in the summer, but Europe is higher, so
>maybe gets better freezes? If so, are longs the way to go?

For Cham - a good place to start is the Gite le Vagabond. Get a bunk there for a few days and you'll easily meet some climbers. It's also walking distance to Les Gaillands which isn't great climbing but can be good for sussing your potential partners belaying and rope work. I then headed up the valley to camping Glacier Argetiere. A good route to get started on is L'Index which is accessed from the top of the flegere chair. It's 5-6 pitches long and really only needs a rack of a few nuts and cams since there lots of pegs and threads.
I think the place to aim for would be the Envers (see the Piola guide of a few years ago) and base yourself at one of the huts below. I haven't climbed there (yet) but from what i've heard the slabs are harshly graded but the cracks will feel soft if you have a trad background. I would bank on bolted belays and a few pegs on each pitch if that helps. South face of the midi would also be worthwhile eg Rebuffat route.
People might take 1 or 2 screws as part of their crevasse kit but you can get by without in summer esp if focusing on rock. Technically for the walk in to Envers or Midi you will be on a glacier but crampon and axe should be sufficient as it is so well travelled.

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