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Topic Date User

Araps(?) may 12-13, leaving ballarat/melbourne 30-Apr-2013 At 9:57:52 AM simey

Message

On 30/04/2013 Wendy wrote:
>On 30/04/2013 eleddy wrote:
>"Comfortable" leading up to 5.8
>>(16) and trying to get into 5.9's (17).
>
>I'm struggling to get my head around being "comfortable" on one grade
>whilst trying to break into the next .... normally i'd say something like
>I'm comfortable on 20, working hard on 22-3 and trying my damnedest to
>be able to onsight 24. Trying to break into doesn't really start to 27.
>
>Which is leading me to think, you should err on the easier side at Araps.
>Many climbers find araps to be a bit stiff at first as well, the rock being
>quite intricate and technical. Fortunately, it has loads of fantastic easy
>routes and you won't be disappointed by jumping on anything from Arachnus
>at 8 to Resignation at 15.

Gee Wendy, talk about being pedantic. I don't think that saying you are comfortable leading up to grade 16 but that you are wanting to break into grade 18 is unrealistic at all (which is pretty much what the original poster is saying) particularly when she also mentions that she seconds up to grade 22!

Making comparisons with yourself breaking into 27s is laughable given you have climbed one route at grade 27 after sieging the shit out of it for days. As for trying your damnedest to onsight 24 - well have you ever onsighted 24 at your home crag of Arapiles? You rarely even launch up 24s at Arapiles ground-up - they are usually top-roped and/or rap inspected with pre-placed gear. And I am guessing you wouldn't have even onsighted half the 22s you have climbed at Arapiles, yet alone the 23s.