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Buffalo Aidfest November 2013 6-Mar-2014 At 5:52:07 PM phillipivan

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On 6/03/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 5/03/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>>Sorry this has taken so long, I'm calling it done because I've had enough
>>of writing.
>>
>(snip)
>
>~> An excellent Trip Report, that was worth waiting for!
>☺
>
>Some comments...
>>Stay low, fifi from a chest harness Rod later tells us;
>To clarify; it is better to have an extended fifi off the waist of your
>harness, passed up through a chest harness/bandolier-gear loop, to keep
>you upright, but supported down low...

I remember quite clearly. I was glossing over details in an effort to be less sententious. Something I did several times in the report. Anyone reading the TR for actionable beta for future ascents take note (which is to say, I hope it's helpful, somehow, but if you believe everything you read, well you'll get what you deserve).

>
>>The rest of the pitch is a flaring crack, which whilst presenting cam
>jugging safe as houses is a prime example (as with the fang) of how aid
>grades tell you very little about the difficultly or awkwardness, only
>the security of a pitch.
>
>Re the ‘On the Rivet’ paragraph;
>This sounds like a new rivet, and/or the paragraph refers to the moves
>just below Big Grassy (with a new rivet to boot)?

No. Looked like an old rivet. Near the end of the pitch above the fang. The crack trends left, and as it pieters out there is a rivet on the right. From this there is a mantle (or a high step to a red camalot), to the ledge with bolts below the chimney.

>Your description of the last pitch (Lord Gumtree actually), sounds amazing.
>I have never heard of it as non-rope free-able before. Not impossible
>I guess, but I don’t personally know anyone with that size cajones!

I think this is a case of me hearing or remembering incorrectly. Still I approached the chimney with the 'knowledge' that it should be easy enough to comfortably solo.

>>Towards the top I whipped out the six camalot I had brought just for
>this pitch. Rod had assured me it was essential. We hadn't clarified if
>we were talking old or new sizing.
>
>Hmm. Another incremental-whisper? I talk in ye olde sizes..., but I remember
>ye olde No 5 (red camalot) being sufficient...
>>So, on its second placement on the entire route, I got the green boat
>anchor over cammed and stuck. Five meters from the top, if that.
>... at least it was good for more than one placement!

The first time it was placed was in the fang. Where it is also unnecessary. By the time Huw came to clean it, it had completely fallen out of the crack and was jus hanging off the rope.

>~> Didja notice the bolt on the left wall at about that point?
>

Pretty darn sure you told me to take a six! Anyway, yes from the stuck new model six camalot I was easily able to clip the rivet on the left. We were that close to the top.

>
>... and what is wrong with jazz music?

Jazz Musicians.