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Miguel75 and PhillipIvan go gardening. 24-Feb-2014 At 3:41:33 PM phillipivan

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On 23/02/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 21/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>>Though M9 had dobbed M75 in to lead te fang pitch, which met no arguments
>from me.
>
>You recognised a sandbag?
>Heh, heh, heh.
Takes one to know one, or something to that effect. Having lead it before, and let it become a massive energy suck, I was confident I could do it quickly and efficiently; but was happy to see how M75 would fare.
>>Granted we became wildly inefficient during the back twelve of the twenty
>four hours we spent on that route.
>
>Fatigue can be an insidious introduction to calamity!
Luckily there was no calamity on that climb. Just fatigue, dehydration, cramping, prolonged shivering, and a little stuck gear.
>>date logs (they looked like small hard turds, laced with shredded coconut)
>
>Anything tastes great on a wall, doesn't it eh?
>;-)
They taste good anytime. That said, I disagree, when sufficiently dehydrated any solids taste like shit, and swallowing is a rather hateful business. As I found out trying to eat a few almonds and sultanas before the last pitch of Ozi Direct.
>>I've seen both Huwj and Miguel75 get pretty gassed jugging with small
>>packs up to BG (Ozi pitch 3). ...
>>
>I reckon much of the lower pitches tend to being just on the evil side
>of vertical, though regardless of that, setup is all important.
>Badly arranged weight distribution in the pack will get you.
>Not using chest straps on a pack that has them will get you.
>Not putting a chest harness/strap on a pack that doesn't have that option
>will get you.
>Depending on weight, yeah I know water is heavy, even for a single-day
>push; it is often easier for the leader to haul the day-pack hand over
>hand, than have the 2nd jug with it, especially if leader is resting at
>the upper belay, rather than short-fixing out solo on the next pitch.
I found LG pitches 1-3 fine to jug with a pack. I wasn't able to keep all my weight on my feet for the top few meters of P3, but not enough to justify (in my mind) hauling that pitch.
I will try clipping the daisy going to the upper jumar through a biner on a pack chest strap in the future. In fact I'll try it tomorrow and see how it fares.
>>I wonder, in worthless hypothetical terms, if we might have been more
>>successful with a slower plan and some bivvy gear etc. Nonetheless, I'm
>>quite happy we tried it as we did. Mike had floated taking his two bivvy
>>bags and no sleeping bag, for the night - which considering the weather
>>would have been the better but still miserable option. In a ledge it
>would
>>have been rad.
>
>Interesting point/s you raise.
>There are always tradeoffs.
>Another thought you have triggered in my mind is the possibility of a
>bivvy bag within a bivvy bag for horrie one night stands...
>Maybe a puffie vest too, if cold weather expected??
I carried a goretex jacket and insulated pullover. Luxury. Mikey had similar.
>>Secretly, I was jealous that I wasn't as wasted as Miguel75 by days end.
>>But I certainly was by the time we drove home.
>
>Also easily fixed by returning!
That is the plan.
>>We failed to take doubles cams in the 0.75 and 1 camalot sizes for no
>>intelligent reason; we were racking up very late at night. This seemed
>>dumb, but didn't slow us down between the ground and BG. Mike did run
>out
>>of small cams at one point.
>
>Again, ye olde balancing act re enough/too much gear...
>Boldness often answers the hypothetical questions...
It was accidental this time, perhaps it will be deliberate in the future. At least on Ozi/LG.
>>On both Ozi Direct with HuwJ and LG with Miguel75 we have had a sling
>>with a followers rack; including jugs, gri gri, and nut key. On moderate
>>aid at least, to M3 or M4, I wonder if the leader could do without dasies
>>also. I use them very little until it gets weird, hard, or I'm shattered.
>>On harder routes I might be worried about losing an Ett.
>
>Another interesting observation.
>Although tenable, it would certainly make resting a more strenuous proposition,
>and any tested gear placements that blow would run the risk of losing the
>ett and gear, unless you clip into a step.
>Personally I reckon the inconvenience of a dropped ett without daisy attachment,
>more than offsets the peace of mind by having daisies.
>If I was that weight conscious to reduce same, I'd leave behind a large
>cam first before daisies, as I find them too convenient in moving around
>belays etc, and am prepared to crack-jumar on cams further than some, when
>it comes to leaving behind one for protection sometimes.
I would only consider this viable for 'easy aid' (what ever that means). I may experiment with the idea, but not to save weight, but to cut down on tangles and bulk around your tie-ins. Any thing where you have reasonable cause to believe gear may pop under you probably warrants them. I don't generally find this to be the case with the gear on OziD. I also expect it would make busting the odd free climbing move or two a bit easier.
A lost Ett would slow you down more than any time you may hope to save. In reality what I may experiment with, is a single daisy that gets used on an as needs be basis.
>>I wore some softshell bibs on the theory that they would make the hanging
>>belays more comfortable by not having a seem under the harness. It seemed
>>to work, but Mikey's belay seat is so much more comfortable (and heavier)
>>than mine it hardly mattered.
>
>Here is another weight saving area?
>Seams under harness can certainly be annoying on long hanging belays just
>in harness.
Probably no real difference in weight. But it was slighty more comfortable. I didn't spend long enough on the wall to have a fair comparison to last time.
>A teaspoon of cement-
I'm all for the lighter less comfortable 'butt bag' seat of mine which weights almost nothing. I lost that argument with M75 though.
>Another option is to rig so you can sit on the daypack, instead of taking
>a belay seat...
That's one idea of your's, M9, I don't think I'll try. A) because it will restrict access to stuff in the pack whilst belaying (food, camera, water, rain jacket) and (b) some of my packs (battered as they are) might explode under treatment like that.
>>The blue totem cam is the best. Why don't I have it in triplicate?
>
>... because you have got by to date without it?
>;-)
That and I normally climb with a partner and can combine gear, and I'd struggle to justify the cost to my other partner (and myself). Also I try not to be too precious about what gear I will or won't climb with.
Still if you are thinking of climbing the route and have access to them, take em. Very secure in the pin scars.