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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
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Topic
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Date |
User
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New Zealand Alpine Climbing 2004 - Part 2 |
17-Aug-2013 At 1:30:14 PM |
Dicksonia
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Message |
I did the Wet Dream/White Dream variation in March 1990 with a Slovenian.
It's a good safe line to do when the ice on White Dreams is too thin. In fact there was ice falling down White Dreams but we were happy climbing the mixed/rock ramp to the left.
Traversing across into the top of White Dreams was a bit awkward, there was some steep rock to negotiate. Once here we climbed the ice cliff direct, because the normal line that bypasses it immediately on the left had melted out. My partner led it with a 5.5mm spectra rope. it was 20m of 80degree slushy snow ice.
I agree that this climb combination a straight grade 5, it can be done at anytime of the year so deserves to get more ascents.
If you do Wet Dreams and avoid the White dreams finish then it would be quicker and easier, and not that all that steep. |
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