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Red zone, blue skies, white snow 17-Oct-2012 At 7:56:15 PM f_ladou

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Christchurch wants out. Out of this strange condition that afflicts her. The “red zoners” also want out. They want to move out of the downtown rubbles and dream about the suburbs where apparently earthquake gangs don't venture. Maybe that's one reason why the city is pushing out antennas in all directions, along the shores and up the hills. Maybe that's why our guidebook “Rock deluxe” is hopelessly out of date when describing the access to Mount Pleasant. “Park near the farm gate” says the guidebook when obviously we are in an affluent new suburb. Not that it matters since our bushman skills have been honed years ago getting lost countless times in the Blueys.

Christchurch post February 2011 earthquake.

This was a week long trip to New Zealand: a short climbing trip to celebrate Dominik impending wedding, a sort of extended bucks night with a couple of mates (i.e. two). For some reasons, we did very little preparation apart from booking the plane tickets in advance. We followed Shaz' recommendation to play it by ear while keeping a close eye on the weather forecast. Given the uncertain weather at this time of the year this was a gamble.

Our evil plan was to spend one day in Christchurch before heading North to Paynes Ford. One day to try the trachyte walls decorating the west side of Mount Pleasant. Since we are sports climbers at heart, we decided not to visit the Banks peninsula which seems to offer a giant playground to our trad friends. One day, I'll have to come back but for now, the solid bolts of “The Shelf” and “Tiger Wall” would do.

Trachyte is hard, perhaps not granite hard but solid. All climbs are well protected and the fixed hangers felt bomber. The February 2011 earthquake left some imposing scars on the cliff face though – with long spills of crushed rock running downhill over 10s of meters. I'd think twice about investing in a house down these slopes. Plenty have done so, that being said.

The west face of Mount Pleasant – somewhere in the shadows are “Tiger wall” and “The Shelf”.

We sampled quite a few climbs on that day. Dominik wanted to try some overhanging 23s or 24s but our warm-ups on 18s and 19s changed his mind. The grading was indeed stiff although our two guidebooks disagreed a lot of the time. “Rock deluxe” systematically grades lower than “Southern Island Rock”. In fact, on some of the climbs our “deluxe” friend's grading was ridiculously low. The Big Lebowsky gets a deluxe 18 while being described as a southern 20 bordering on 21. It sure didn't feel like an 18. Similarly Three's Company at 19 had a spicy powerful move that was more suited to a 22. Perhaps this has something to do with too much soft climbing on Blueys sandstone? Well, it doesn't really matter, we had a fab day (except perhaps Dominik) and if you are in Christchurch and are looking for some sports climbs, check it out.

Dominik on “Bathroom Vanity” (21): nice edges and some balancy moves

Myself on “Three’s Company” (21): power is required right here.

The next day, we drove to Paynes Ford. The six hour drive along the coast through Nelson skirts around the Abel Tasman National Park over an impressive ridge referred to by the locals as “Takaka Hills”. Yes, hills. As if. The descent into Golden Bay is beautiful, no other word would best applied. The road meanders down the slopes, crosses the Takaka river once before reaching our destination. It was late afternoon, we checked out the site before finding a nice comfy motel for we are also truly social climbers. After a meal at the Telegraph Hotel where we planned the next day, we watched “Dude, where's my car” and hit the sack.

View over the Takaka River from the top of the wall at Paynes Ford

The next day, after a big brekky, we were all set. Our day started on Mid-Wife Crisis a fun grade 14. We figured it was probably a good idea to get used to the local limestone on something easy. I climbed a few times on limestone, even once in Australia (Bob's Hollow) but this wall is different. It wavy with curious ribs running vertically. Of course, you'll find the usual finger pockets and scoops but the few tufas are too voluminous to be useful. The climbs are well but sparsely bolted with the first bolt often in need of a stick clip. All together, a job well done, solidly done.

We tasted quite a few climbs on that day. Temple of Stone (18) was excellent, Jimmy the Torn Piece of Paper… (20) was even better. Both climbs are quite long sustained and start as technical slabs and end as no less technical crimp fests. Delicious.

Dominik on “Blobbet” (17) – at least I think so.

The highlight of the day was, for me, R for Ranger, D for Danger (21). This arête has to be one of the most committing single-pitch climbs I ever did. The sparse 9 bolts over 27 meters are an indication of what's to come. The crux, halfway up relies on a delicate but powerful move high above the last bolt to an uncertain stance. From there, you pray that a further hold will allow you to keep on going. That hold of course does not exist. What exists is a tenuous blunt vertical edge which, as a gaston, will allow you to step higher to an even more precarious position. By then, my belayer was cursing me: there was no way back but a massive whipper and the next bolt was still way above me. The next move was left to the arête and somehow stoicism kept me company. A series of small crimps and good footholds led me to the next bolt which I clipped and then I begged to be taken. The rest of the climb still had some spicy moves to it and by the end of it, I called it a day while the boys finished it on Sacred Forest (19), another excellent a sustained climb.

That was a good day.

After Paynes Ford, our next destination was Pohara. Now it has to be said that the location is breathtaking. The cliffs are literally on the ocean overlooking Golden Bay and the weather Gods stayed with us once more. We immediately found “Seagrass Wall” and started to climb on excellent limestone. Although it is said that the rock is not as good as in Paynes Ford, the warm-up climbs couldn't be better: Thrust (16), Hair on a G string (18) and Up against the Wall (18) were all yummy – they all share a common crux height were the wall becomes a little slabbier and blanker.

The three of us will remember that day for one truly memorable climb: As Good as it Gets (22). The name is perfectly suited. I often make the point that overhanging gym climbs are unrealistic: incongruously steep with giant holds. Well this one, should be moved indoor. In fact, this one is for the Ling brothers (Chris and Alex, you would have had a ball on this one). The climb start with absurdly good hold on 30 degree incline. Then it keeps on going and going by the end of it, on the rap down, you land about 6 meters from the wall with a giant smile on your face. Classic. Alex did it with one break, Dominik with two and I, well, lets say within a finite numbers but I was the one putting the draws on. That’s my poor excuse anyway.

Dominik having a total ball on “As Good as it Gets” (22).

Pohara on the second day was even better. This time we chose “Cathedral Wall”, an impressive limestone wall standing proud, 50 meters above the ocean. The climbs here a long but of moderate grade. We started on Dirty Old Man (16) an easy climb that follow a giant vertical wound in the rock face, a sort of medieval looking ba