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TR - Clockwork Orange, Shipley Lower
Winston Smith
10:32:36 AM
This route definitely needs retroing... ;-)
Mr Poopypants
10:45:48 AM
Just not in dress-sense, please!! Those stubbies shorts are too draughty at this time of year! :-)

1:58:28 PM
Did ya clip the anchor bolts at the top or use a tree?
Winston Smith
3:42:46 PM
On 23/06/2012 timfreddo wrote:
>Did ya clip the anchor bolts at the top or use a tree?

Lassoed a solid column of shit that had broken off from near the upper cliff and speared itself through the sandstone lower cliff top, exactly above Clockwork Orange.

Rapped off a similar 'natural' anchor to access the route.
9:41:00 PM
Good on you for getting on this one, mate, and thanks for the trip report.

As both a crack-addict and a fan of Kubrick (alas, never read the novel) I've been meaning to do this route since forever and enjoyed the TR.
One Day Hero
11:48:15 PM
Interesting point which I'd forgotten but have just been reminded of, 2/3 of that Clockwork Orange speak is bastardized from some slavic language or another..........same for Mila's funny language in the fifth element, she chucked in a lot of the native tongue.

Nice t.r., the route is a total classic.
11:03:31 AM
Nice TR - and a cool blog, pity there is not more

8:11:36 AM
On 23/06/2012 timfreddo wrote:
>Did ya clip the anchor bolts at the top or use a tree?

Rap on them the other day mate....I think the glue has dried since you were down there;-)

8:29:24 AM
Nice TR, thanks for linking.

9:51:27 AM
Nice TR.
Spent some time reading your blog as well. Very enjoyable
Winston Smith
2:08:48 PM
Thanks guys for your kind words.

11:46:01 AM
I enjoyed the TR after finally having time to get to read it! I especially like the inclusion of the original ascent photo along with your ascent photo in that report.
I did not enjoy reading about the ongoing thoughtless crapping technique in the bushes that seems to be prevalent in too many places these days... :(
1:36:50 PM
Also enjoyed the TR. Sounds like a nice climb!

On 4/07/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I did not enjoy reading about the ongoing thoughtless crapping technique
>in the bushes that seems to be prevalent in too many places these days...
> :(

Probably travelling Europeans... ;-)
12:00:04 AM
Good Report Rod and thanks for resurrecting the photo montage that used to be on the SRC website.

Yes a bit cold at the moment for those stubbies, that ascent was March or April, 1984 (now there's a year for you, Winston). Heinz Jakob took the photos while Robert Starmer belayed me. I climbed it again in late 2001, this time seconding an English visitor. It hadn't got any easier. Definitely one of the best lines in the mountains and a great find by KB & Ray in '72.
10:36:32 AM
"No-Chalk Rob" and I jumped on this one on saturday morning (before an afternoon at Shipley Upper/Centennial Glen).

I'm glad I re-read your trip report, and brought a second rope for the initial abseil, because I definately wouldn't have enjoyed climbing on a saturated rope.

My impressions:

First pitch: Hardish start with dubious gear for the initial moves, but once you're off the ground there are sinker wires for the rest of the technical and interesting first pitch. Maybe hard at 18, but awesome climbing the whole way.

Second pitch: A bold lead by Rob. It's a good thing the gear is bombproof because you wouldn't want to spend too much time faffing about trying to place it. Most of the scary steepness is mitigated by numerous stances (and some convenient rest jams), but the final 2 metres to the belay ledge of quite spicey and -in my opinion- rather committing. A brilliant pitch, and a good fight from Rob.

Third pitch: Tricky and interesting. Pretty run-out to the first decent piece of gear, but after that it's a nice stemming finale with some cool moves.

All in all, a brilliant piece of Blueys tradding. Seriously, peeps, no excuses: get on it!

There are 15 messages in this topic.


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