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Topic Date User

TR;- boars head abseil route 15-Mar-2012 At 12:41:47 PM baz74

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Not much info on Old Shandy but once you find it you wont get off route to many bolts and tracks to the top from there. Getting the start is the trickiest thing DON'T start at the arete just left of Dirty Rotten Pig where there is an old carrot and then monumental choss above, instead follow the ledge past a tree with abseil tapes on it. After about 70m look for a faint track up a gully/corner behind trees - head up this to a nice ledge. Old shandy starts here up a slab past numerous hangers to a belay. From the belay you can see the route head left, then up and then left across ledges, very easy from here.

If you want to avoid the first and second pitch (the best bit) then you can abseil down the otherside of the slot after the chimney drop and that puts you at the end of the second pitch and it would be a grade 2 scramble out with ringbolts every few meters. I haven't done it this way so best to have 2x50m rope. The direct climb out via that abseil looks like a nice corner crack (goes at 14 apartently) then you chimney up the previous pitch - would be very exciting with a few guided groups coming down.

If you want to do Dirty Rotten Pig reversing the exit and doing a double rope rap from the top of the second pitch of old shandy might be the quickest way and avoid the crowds - haven't tried it myself though.