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Sweet Bellbird Wall 6-Dec-2011 At 3:41:19 PM f_ladou

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On Sunday, after months of inactivity on my part, Dominik and I returned to the Blueys to get onto Bellbird Wall a new-ish (2009) three pitch climb at Pullpit Rock in the distant suburb of cosmopolitan Blackheath. On the way back, in the car, Dominik asked me if I intended to write something on Chockstone about our day out. Mmm...

True, it was our first multipitch since we got our asses handed back to us on a ironstone platter on the second pitch of Blue Ruin.

True, I'm finally getting over a(nother) disc slip due, according to some, to a malicious curse (the fabled maloccio) invoked unfairly upon me ages ago.

True, we had just survived a violent hail storm (that being said: sitting in a comfy cave munching on our prosciutto sandwiches while Dominik bored me to death with his latest romantic conquests).

All outstanding reasons to write up, I know, but somehow the whole thing didn't seem like warranting a trip report in the style veni, vidi, vici. But stories should not always be about unstoppable enthusiasm and positivity running head first into adversity (with or without choss), at your grade limit, pumped and dehydrated. No, no, those lies should be kept for occasions worth leveraging into kardashian fame and timberlandish fortune. Also, this time it's easier as Alex was not around and for once, I don't have to tediously weave him in while maintaining a semblance of truth… (the man is in Fiji at moment enjoying having married into the Empire).

No, trip reports should be about enticing people to rope up. Whatever the grade. So here we go.

From the rap station, two abseils will take you down to terra ferma – using two 60 meter double ropes that is. I don't think you can rap down with a single 60 m rope, or 50 m for that matter. The first pitch is essentially a long technical and enjoyable diagonal traverse on a slab. It's graded at 16 but it could equally have been given 17 as it is quite technical here and there. Unless the grades is for the 16 draws your need for that one pitch...

The second pitch is stellar: two sections are overhanging. The first one only slightly with crimpy holds that will force you to rethink how easy a 17 could (or should?) be; the second one is a monkey playground with giant holds. It's well protected so you can have fun while hanging 50 meter above deck. Take your beginner friend and sent him/her to lead that one. That'll be a test of character.

The end of the second pitch leads into a cave which was, on that day, very convenient to sit the hail storm out. Then getting out of the cave, you go through a chimney/vault which will bring a smile to your soul (?!) as you pull out back onto the main wall. All of this at grade 15. Great, great, great.

I hear you ask the question, should I bring my beginner mate do this climb or should I do Sweet Dreams for the n-th time? Sweet Dreams is easier and certainly less confronting as there is no rap down, no steep overhang sections, no chimney. But I would venture to say that Bellbird Wall is a better climb overall, more varied and challenging and also set in a magnificent area (see below).

Honestly, I think it is one of the best low grade multipitch routes in the Blueys at the moment. For those who would like to experience that kind of adventure for the first time, just drive to the end of Hat Hill Road, find the Pullpit Rock car park and gear up!

So, thanks again Niall and the gang for putting it up,

Cheers, François

Bellbird Wall (45m, 16, 40m, 17, 15m, 15)
First Ascent: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Vanessa Peterson, Veronica Trainor, Althea Arguelles-Ling, Chris Ling, Mike Law, 7 Mar 2009

Myself 10 meters above the belay of pitch one (45m, 16) with 35 m and 10 more draws to go. Impeccable technique.

Another breathtaking view of the Grose valley, looking west.