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Freshwater Beach 30-Aug-2011 At 8:42:37 PM sbm

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> The bouldering on the big blocks on the north side of the beach isn't too bad either.

Yeah they looked pretty impressive, I bet the headwalls are exiting.

On 29/08/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>An interesting trip report sbm, which brings back ancient memories of a
>few times I climbed there (once in the late 70's and again a couple of
>times in the early 80's), on nuts and hexes.
>
>It sounds like the broken glass and ruins aspect of climbing there has
>not changed, but from viewing your video it seems to me that the feral
>plants overgrowing the cliff have increased quite a bit.
>
>Back then leading was de rigour, so that is what we did, even though the
>location was considered 'practice climbing' by us at the time. I remember
>the non-event of climbing the crack/corner to your right on the first visit,
>but what stands out most in memory was doing a line a long way seaward
>from your video location, that took steep territory to a topout in someones
>back yard! Although it was a clean line, it was mostly memorable for us
>being shat on by cormorants who were drying their wings on a ledge at about
>half height on the climb. I can attest to it being vile stinking oily stuff
>that is difficult to get off your clothes and rope!
>

Much respect, leading anything ground up on gear on that cliff would be bit sketchy! The hexes were probably more secure than the cams would have been with all the sand in the cracks. Next time I'll try to not be chickensh!t and bring my leading pants.

>It sounds like you had a good time, and I am stoked that people still
>find a bit of magic on nondescript rock even if it is in an urbanised environment.

Rather climb a grotty seacliff without a guidebook, than queue up for some polished 'classic' with so much magnesium carbonate plastered on it it's actually precipitated a layer of limestone on the holds.

>Thanks for posting the report, ... and maybe in 30 or so years time your
>memory will be enlivened by reading of the next generation discovering
>it for themselves!
>;-)

Cheers M9.