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Mt Buffalo new routes @ Mackeys Lookout 31-May-2011 At 10:10:32 PM Paz

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Woke to an incredible morning in the Gorge last week, clouds lining the valley for as far as you could see, perfect temperature and friction, how could anything be amiss in such a place?

I hadn't seen the write up for these "routes" on climb.org or here, and didn't know what I was staring at on the rap down (now know it's 'Fundamental difference of Opinion' pitch 2). What a fitting title. Similarly with "No Ego", there seems to be a lot of ego on display here....What's jgoding say at the top of this thread, "Unless you are a highly competent climber who enjoys the thrill of running it out I would only recommend these new routes." hmmmmmm.....what was that route name again?

According to the Buff guide there's nothing there. Instead what's there is really, really sad. You may as well hang flags off all the U-bolts they're that obvious. It's like someone's invited Denzel Washington to an Aryan meeting. I have no issue with such a "line" being (over)bolted. However these f-ckers deteriorate from the complete experience of such a crag and the surrounding climbs.
Did the first ascentionists think the line was worth so little they didn't bother using carrots? Or were they saying something with their "No Ego"? It's not even that it's so overbolted it's ridiculous, maybe 10- 12 bolts in 50 metres with no chance ever of hitting anything, and the slabs so polished you're not even going to get a grating. It's the choice of bolts. WHY?!

Half the enjoyment of slab climbing at a place like Buff is fumbling for some bolt plates, trying to eye a shimmer of metal among a sea of granite to see where the next pro is. This climb has absolutely nothing going for it apart from a severe case of hemorrhoids.