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Speigals Overhang [North Jawbones, Cathedral Range 26-May-2011 At 11:35:42 AM gtempest

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After three post bushfires trips (with Tracey Skinner, Michael Hampton, Greg Caire and others) we tried to find a better route up from the main walkers path to the base of North Jawbone (because the original climbers trail was severely eroded). We weren't successful. While there are various routes up the hill we discounted them because they were either too long, convoluted, difficult and/or eroded. In the end I think the original path will probably be the best option but it will probably need some future trail work.

We did however work out a fairly straightforward walking descent off the cliff. After the bushfires we pretty much ruled out the original gully descent as it was too badly eroded and dangerous. It is much better and safer to descend the bushwalkers trail down from the summit to the North Jawbone Peak Saddle. A shallow gully (which wasn't burned in the fires) brings you back down to the bottom of the original descent gully at the right side of the cliff (American Dream etc). I've descended this way on all my subsequent visits to North Jawbones and it really is the easiest (walking) option. The only reason anyone would be tempted to descend the original descent gully would if they did any of the routes ending below Odd Wall (Xenith, Northern Ramble etc). Personally I still think it is easier to scramble up to the top of North Jawbone and descend as I've described. I'm sure that those who want to get down as quickly as possible will disagree.

There needs to be a rap station installed above the Fruit Hustler Area. This is a pretty busy section of the cliff (a couple of single pitch moderately-graded 2 star classics does this). A rap station would stop all those people having to scramble up the hideous gully to below Odd Wall and then walk down the original descent gully. As for a rappel descent down the cliff, this has been talked about for maybe 20 years or more. I spent a whole weekend once looking for the the best route down. Rapping down Left Buttress wasn't going to work as the best initial rap point anchors would take you directly down some of the most popular climbing on the cliff (and there were heaps of bushes). Next I checked out Central Buttress but it was too broken near the top and I figured that the ropes would probably get caught up in all the ledges and bushes (a shame as this buttress is of course the least used piece of rock on the cliff). Right Buttress again suffers from popularity. Dropping, rapping and pulling ropes should be avoided on potentially busy routes. At the time I figured the best possible rap descent would be located either down Travellers Slab or immediately to its left (The Knob). I didn't have a 60m rope then and I felt it was all too complicated to have to do two more raps down the slab left of Route 2 to reach the ground. Now 60m ropes are becoming the norm it may be worth having a new look at a possible rap descent down this section of the cliff.

Important things to consider are: any rappel descent should involve the minimum number of rappels possible (two would be ideal), must be located away from a conflict of interest with popular routes, should have the least possible rope management issues (ropes getting caught up when throwing and pulling) and finally, each rappel station must be located in a position where two or three climbers can safely pull, rig and rappel (I have no doubt that a rappel route down the cliff will attract climbers who have little or no experience at multi-pitch rappels).

Steve, if you are headed up to North Jawbone in the near future (I think it will probably be a bit wet up there tomorrow) I wouldn't mind joining you. Stay in touch.