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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Noblesse Oblige TR

D.Lodge
6-Mar-2011
4:37:11 PM
Went up to Mt Buffalo on Friday with a mate to do Noblesse Oblige. Has been on the cards for over a year now, but took this long for everything to line up. Early start from Melbourne got us to the base at 11 after dropping off bikes at Mackeys Lookout.
The 40 min bush bash was tough, but we did see the occasional marker on trees and bushes i finally found the base of the climb. The first pitch went fine, especially as i missed the first belay and ended up linking the first 2 pitches. The remainder of the pithches went past fairly quickly including me running up a couple, literally! The whole climb took a littl over 2 hours and was a fantastic way too rack up a lot of metres and get way up above the valley, i have never laughed so much on a climb before.
The last pitch we unroped and simul-soloed to the top to finish about 5m from where we chained up the bikes, score! A fantastic route to do and heaps of fun, the bolts help to keep you on the right path and don't detract from the experience at all. Finished off the day by doing This land is not ours 19 one of the best 19's that i have done for a while, driving back to Melbourne that night was a weary but a well earned pizza was at the end.
egosan
6-Mar-2011
11:22:58 PM
On 6/03/2011 D.Lodge wrote:

>.... i have never laughed so much on a climb before.

You are doing it wrong, D.Lodge. Climbing is serious.

D.Lodge
7-Mar-2011
10:38:50 AM
it doesn't always have to be, i actually fell over laughing just after i clipped a bolt because i ran up to it. Way too much fun!
Fish Boy
7-Mar-2011
2:37:25 PM
Is that 19 the one at Dreamworld? If so, did you finish straight up after the last bolt, or do a sick right fridge hug and finish up that flake? I've done it both ways, the second way probably isn't the real way...

ajfclark
7-Mar-2011
2:39:14 PM
Yup that's the one at Dreamworld. There's a video on here that shows an interesting technique for protecting that last move... http://www.chockstone.org/MtBuffalo/HornArea/ThisIsNotOurLand.m1v

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Mar-2011
9:27:15 PM
On 7/03/2011 davidn (edit: who has since deleted his post), wrote:
>You fell on a grade 3 11?? (M9 rating)

Fixedthatforyadn!

D.Lodge
8-Mar-2011
5:42:27 PM
Straight up ala the video, except without the lasso at the top. Nifty trick that one.
Cheers for that M9, it was on one of the grade 6 pitches though :)

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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