2 rest days and I woke up feeling like shit today. Not in line with the forecast it wasn't raining, so I downed a couple of expresso's and a bowl of cereal and headed off to Salvan to get on the monster boulder problem (well, for me it is). REALLY good warm up, a couple of runs in each of the crux sections, nice long rest and gave it a shot. Fell off with 4 moves to go. Another 20 minute rest, got that dreadful shaky trembly feeling right at the wrong moment and couldn't stick the first move of the crux, worse result than round one. Decided on going for a 30 minute stroll, get back and pull back on, nail the lot through and including the first move of the crux and then got the tremble back and missed move 2 of the crux. 10 minute break, 1 move further but same result...FCUK!
It was 2 hours gone by then, on a day when they were forecasting rain. 10 minutes later I decided the best idea was to take a break, go get some lunch, chill out hoping the forecast rain would hold off for a while longer and come back mid/late afternoon when my body occasionally has a tendency to want to climb.
Got back there around 3:30, I was nice and warm from the car trip but the rock was cool with a little breeze helping. Tape the tips to reduce the rock bite problem, liquid chalk, clean the shoes, normal chalk-up, french blow and 30 hand moves later it was done...SO hard to finish the main crux moves which end 2 moves from the finish. Really nice line and its in an anti-style - PB. Stoked? You bet!
Couldn't even manage a 5C traverse on the cool down, I'm spent. |