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Rod's Euro 2010 - Trip Report 29-Jul-2010 At 9:07:55 PM rod

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stung into action by the crap effort the day prior, yesterday we got out and gave it a really good lash. onsighted 6a/6b's then decided to get some revenge: crushed a mantle coming out of the crux on a 6c that crushed me the day prior, happy man. didn't tackle the 6a that defeated me the day prior, i can't reach the key hold without a 6C boulder move so i figure its just a morpho issue or the original key hold broke off.

got onto the proj: spat off the entry crux but, dropping the transfer move, pulling straight back onto the arete and sending the rest went great, drilled the remaining the cruxes and wasn't quite pumped to oblivion for the first time.

entry crux is still giving me grief, only get it about 40% or 50% of the time - iron cross move to the overhanging arete sloper, paste the feet about 30cm below each hand, toe hook right foot, exit iron cross via transfer of right hand onto arete sees the barn door because i often just can't get enough out of the right foot toe hook or i get spat off as i release it. tried flagging right leg behind or in front of left leg yesterday, just puts right foot and lower limb into mid air and only slows down the barn door during the RH transfer. had a think on it last night and may be able to do it via paste right foot interior the left foot, send the left foot into mid air and use the resulting spiral twist to transfer the right hand...next try. if i can't do that, i'm going to film it and analyse with a few other heavyweights and if that doesn't result in a solution then I'll have to drop a couple of kilo's - cheating or not, it's too good a line to not try everything.

rain today, thank goodness...did a lot of metres yesterday and feel the need for a rest day.