Pilier de la Maye, La Fouly, Val Ferret, 450m, 4a, 6a, 6b, 5c, 5c, 6a, 6a, 5c, 6b, 6a, 6a. 1 hour approach from the carpark.
Grey granite, north facing, sole route in the basin and quite unusual in style.
Highlights: the tricky boulder problem in the 6a pitch 2 was close to the hardest thing on the whole route, 6b pitch 3 has an awesome bit of rounded friction climbing in the first 15m coupled with a brilliant side on view of the leader for the belayer, pitch 6 at 6a contained lots of moments where the headspace comes into play with committing friction foot placements - sustained, pitch 8 with its rising traverse off the belay, pitch 9's memorable friction climbing seeing Alex take a nice zipper on lead, I only made it by the skin of my teeth on second...super sustained, pitch 10 has a lovely lieback section through a rounded corner.
Overall rarely athletic but most of the pitches are pretty sustained in difficulty.
The setting itself is brilliant - big glacier basin, no one around.
Top out
Rapping taken at about the mid point of the route
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