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Mild Peril - Rated PG 23-Mar-2010 At 11:52:22 PM alex_f

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It had been three weeks since Shaz, Francois and I had a fantastic day out, climbing Rutger Hauer, an awesome 4-pitch climb in the Pierces Pass area. Now it was again early Sunday morning, the sun was shining, Shaz, Dominik and I were sipping our coffees in Blackheath and we all still had Francois’ words in our ears: Don’t climb “Mild Peril” while I am overseas!! Wait until I come back!!! Mild Peril, apparently another mega-classic route right next to our new friend Rutger…. I looked at Shaz, she looked at me and the decision was made: Today is a Mild Peril day. Dominik, haven’t done either of the two routes, accepted the verdict without protest.
One hour later, after the familiar half hour walk-in and after the two familiar but still spectacular abseils down to the base of Yesterday's Groove we found ourselves in front of an impressive sandstone wall, starring at the two magic letters: MP.
As the first and the last (4th) pitch are the two easiest pitches on the climb I quickly tied in to both of our (or actually Francois’…) half-ropes and started leading pitch one, 15m (20). Apart from the fact that there are some loose rocks all along the pitch it’s a very enjoyable short climb up a corner to a comfy belay ledge. Shaz and Dominik followed without problems.
The second pitch is a very sustained climb at grade (22). And it is a long pitch. In fact, it is a very looooong pitch, almost 50m in total. Old-school European gentlemen as we are, Dominik and I offered Shaz to take the lead. And this is exactly what she did. Without complaining, without the groaning and moaning that is so familiar with some other climbers (no names…), a perfect example of efficiency, taking rests wherever possible, moving quickly through the most difficult sections. After a few 'Guys, this is such an awesome climb!' she arrived at the second belay point. Tick! Dominik was the first to follow, moaning and groaning his way up and clipping his harness into two bolts to take a rest. Then it was me who 'cruised' up, clipping into at least double as many bolts and constantly repeating the mantra 'Gee, this is pumpy! Really nice but soooo pumpy!'
Pitch 3 was now waiting for Dominik. Much shorter, only 15m, but apparently even a tick harder, graded (23). He climbed the first section without problems and navigated the short and easy but slightly scary traverse before arriving at a blank section. That’s where the fun starts. Dominik elegantly avoided the first crux with a big dyno-jump to a good ledge, clipped and took a break to contemplate what to do next. He then powered through a few tiny crimps to clip the next bolt and took a break to contemplate what to do next. This game continued until he finally reached the third belay. It wasn’t hard to hear the relief in his voice as he shouted the wonderful words 'I am safe!'. Next it was my turn. I lost some skin in my four attempts to repeat the 'Dominik-dyno' before I finally got hold of the ledge. Later I sat in the rope a few times but eventually also managed to reach the belay point. Needless to say that Shaz of course ticked the pitch, discovering a magic undercling to avoid the dyno.
The 4th and last pitch was again a bit longer (25m) but easier (20) and thus it was me to take the lead again. After a tricky move to reach the second clip (quite scary as I would have landed on my belayer if I fell off…) I climbed a few more meters and arrived at a big ledge, clipped above my head and looked at the big and juggy final wall. About 15m still to go and a terrifying discovery: 'Guys, there are no more bolts!'. I am glad that I could not hear what Dominik and Shaz were talking but Dominik finally shouted towards me 'There must be more bolts, just continue!'. Under lots of protest and being adamant that there are definitively no more bolts I did the crux move to gain the head wall, climbed about one meter above my last bolt and then I decided to shut up, discovering a shiny new ring bolt inside a nice pocket not too far away…. Clipping a few more, magically appearing bolts I finished the climb and belayed my two fellow climbers up.
Tired but happy we finally admired the fantastic view of the Grose valley from the top of the cliff. In the late afternoon sun this place is simply majestic, or, as Shaz would say, freakin’ awesome!
Conclusions: A great climb, definitively worth doing but definitively a lot harder than Rutger Hauer although similar graded. And many thanks to Francois (currently in Montreal) for lending us his half ropes…

Shaz leading pitch 2

Alex belaying Dominik on pitch 3. What a nice view...

Dominik and Alex on top of the climb