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Rod's Euro 2009 - Trip Report ~ with updates! 29-Aug-2009 At 7:26:51 PM rod

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writing up a couple of days mid-altitude climbing around le catogne with guy before i forget...

day 1 Au Fil du Temps 5b, 6a, 5c, 5c, 5a/b, 6a, 5b. Gneiss, above Bovernier. Fairly uneventful apart from the approach, descent and the wildlife: butterflies, chevreux (small deer), falcons...and whilst marvelling at being buzzed by swallows during the airy pitch 6 i was bitten on the bicep by a wasp right in the middle of the crux, i hurried on out of there. At the final belay, bees decided I was an attractive target but I managed to avoid being bitten despite their interest. Overall a good warm up for Guy in a picturesque though noisy setting on mediocre rock.

day 2 Moments Authentiques 6a, 6a+ with short 4c transition at the end, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6a+. Granite. La Dyure, Champex. Very well bolted sport route, equipped ground up.

The prior day's approach and descent plus an interrupted sleep due to a call from Australia had really taken it out of me, Guy said he felt similar fatigue during the approach. We lunched and launched the attack around midday.

First 6a opens on flakes and a very nice high step committing into a series of 4 or 5 moves up small flakes and edges, cruise to the chains thereafter.

Second pitch at 6a+ works its way up a 30 metre pillar of fabulous rock requiring good footwork and balance moving between flakes and fissures. Guy led it well and displayed quite a fetish for wide stemming moves in lieu of neat footwork.

Third pitch 6a was fairly bold throughout but very good flakes and fissures made it relatively easy climbing on a nice aesthetic arete (some trad gear would be useful for someone close to their grade limit in this pitch). From the fantastic belay position you get a great look at the main headwall and surrounding alpine scenery. A falcon dived past and a huge eagle or Gypaete circled overhead whilst I was belaying Guy on up.

Pitch 4 is where things start getting steeper, fantastic pitch mixing an opening on small flakes, followed by a technical slab that is near vertical involving a crux which demands some spacial reasoning and patience. The sequence combines palming with stemming moves on an ill defined corner, it then runs into a series of flakes and cracks which become a little strenuous at the end. Guy cracked in the technical section and took a couple of rests but finished it off. The rock is brilliant in this pitch.

Pitch 5 I arrived at the chains and prepared for the crux pitch. It opens by climbing onto a tree, a step left onto a small ledge and then moving a clip off the belay station onto the first bolt. Thereafter its quite strenuous corner work consistent with the grade on rock which is very much inferior to the preceeding pitch. 4 bolts in with a mixture of stemming, foot smears and jams you arrive under an overhang and as a consequence its quite difficult to see the solution. I moved into the corner and created a several minute rest. Getting my breath back I took a few runs up and down trying to establish a mental map of possible sequences but it was very difficult to map the feet positions that matched the hand holds. I downclimbed and checked out a potential solution to the left which but decided to dispence with that option in favour of going straight up with both hands either side of the overhanging arete and the hope of finding good enough smears to set up for a big high step before transitioning left. Kinda gassed by now but, committing, the sequence worked for the grade; a fall would have been 5m or so but fairly inconsequential. The pitch finishes in a rising traverse either through a strenuous option involving footwork and using bigger handholds on an overhanging arete or simply committing to small flakes and crystals on fabulous rock; more technical but far less physical. I opted for the latter but it ended up being very strenuous anyway because Guy was very stingy in paying out rope. Guy took the big holds strenuous option.

Pitch 6, 5 star rock comprising flakes and high friction crystals. Guy was a bit wobbly through fatigue but with a couple of rests got the job done. I followed him up and felt quite fatigued by the end as well, it was quite continuous in difficulty and surprisingly deceptive in steepness.

At the top out we admired the scenery, pine filled valleys and slopes thinning out higher up into typical spires of granite topping the Mt Blanc massif. I finished the last of my water and separated the ropes then we walked off, eyes down for vipers which are prevalent in this sort of terrain, helmets on for small rock fall triggered by chamois. Rejoining the base, we ate then pulled on the packs at the base and walked out on the very comfortable path. Nearing the car a 1m viper was warming himself on the path and it took the don't move option, we left it a metre or so of space and in a minute or so it realised it had ben spotted so it made a cautious move for the bush. They're not life threatening but the bite is painful and can put you out of action for several days.

Excellent outing this second day, the setting, rock and route are absolutely fantastic. Highly recommended.

Headed for the Jura and this weekend will pass in the company of Regis, Laurence and friends climbing in secret spots and socialising...promises to be quite strenuous.