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Rod's Euro 2009 - Trip Report ~ with updates! 24-Aug-2009 At 8:36:26 PM rod

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Racked up off we went up this

Uneventful until the second 5a, apart from route finding with a few bolts having been blown away by past rockfall, basically nice friction climbing on lichen covered crystals. I just paid attention to angles in order to take a few shots of G on 2nd. Here she is in pitch 2.

We were joined during pitch 4 by Isa who was swapping leads with her partner 'Pincette' - Gaynor was tasked with befriending them.

The second 5a+ was a really nice pitch, the first classic Grimsel style pitch so far, a bit of glacier scar here and there, the fun bit being to commit to the friction. G seconded it in style and I watched from above as Isa just about got the yips before committing to it admirably.

This pitch triggered a flurry of discussion from all and sundry in the shared experience. During the next pitch I struck up a chat with the leader on a pitch 10m or so to our left, a bloke from Chamonix. 3 couples chatting away in French in the heart of German speaking Switzerland, a rare interlude. Got a good photo of him leading their crux pitch in the route which I think is called Neuholtz(?).

I cruised up the next 5c, finding it easier than the previous pitch. Everyone else did as well but perhaps its just that by then we were in the groove. Nice little step over in the next pitch of 5b.

Great direct start on a boulder into the 4c. Pinch two nice aretes, friction on lichen for the right foot, toe hook left arete for the left foot and clip, slight release of pressure on the right foot and the slide commences but re-application of pressure and it stops. Super cool, easily avoided on the right. The rest of the pitch involved classic glacier bulges and crack systems, apply pressure on one foot, step up and as you apply pressure to the next foot the first foot hold pops through lack of friction. Nice.

G joined me bubbling away about the first moves which both the girls replicated, including the slippage, then the creepyness of the low friction moves.

I launched into the crux pitch, 6a or 5c if aiding the section. I kept things entertaining picking a direct up an arete system until arriving at the crux and then took a couple of shots at a direct into a very thin crack before deciding on a right heelhook onto the bigger grain of a glacer rounded arete, right hand squeeze of same, left hand semi fingerlock into the thin crack and toe jam into same crack. that set me up to be able to apply pressure and gain nearly a metre then move the left hand into a slightly deeper rounded crack to the left. Clipped and an easy bit of crack work to the chains. The following shot shows G seconding before the crux with Isa and Pincette in the background.

One small section to go and this shot illustrates the style - glacier polished basins, really fun and no hand holds. I left a piece of gear in for Isa at the crux removing some of the uncertainty during the clip on the last move of the day...she had a BIG smile on her face when she grabbed the clip.

G and I stayed up top and ate some lunch. Rapping off we got the cords jammed in fissures twice so I had to climb up and recover them. All in all a great end to a weekend that started out so dire, Grimsel is thoroughly recommended on a cool but sunny weekend.

A couple of scenery shots to round off...