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Rod's Euro 2009 - Trip Report ~ with updates! 22-Jul-2009 At 9:10:19 PM rod

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I pull over the top and we're in the sun hanging from a machine drilled bolt glad to have picked the "harder" option, the "easy" 4c/5a option is one polluted looking pitch.

One bolt rap past 2 pitches and we'll be able to use the bolts in the Darbellay, Antonin goes forth and I join him on a ledge after passing off rock into a suspended rap unable to touch the walls for 40 metres or so. The raps went without incident thereafter and we gratefully touched down at the base. 17:00.

Packed it all up and Antonin looked worked mentally, this one really took it out of him and heading back to the bivvy spot he was almost manic in his pace clearly trying to put it behind him. We rested 15 minutes or so at the bivvy spot, packed it all up and walked all the way back to the car. 21:00.

On the way back 3 frenchies passed and their Erik said they had tackled it a few days prior, rockfall ended that trip in cutting their cord in 3 causing them to rap off before the first 7a pitch. They were back to send.

22:00 at Le Corner in Fully we dined on pizza and Shiraz, headed back to Branson and downed another bottle. Then another huge storm hit, we both smiled at each other in the knowledge that we hadn't stopped at the bivvy and headed off to our respective beds to listen to the rain fall.

So now we're the 22nd and since then we're had 3 days with the TDF in our region, I've done some bouldering the past 2 days at spots new to me which are great and the experience with the crocodile of Etat de Choc has been purged.

From here on Antonin and I will probably only do single pitch stuff together as having taken this summer off we've now fulfilled each other's dreams: mine of Wolfgang Gullich, possibly THE aesthetic limestone line in Europe; his of Etat de Choc, probably THE trad line in Switzerland and possibly the Alps. They're both awesome, totally different styles, unique both and thoroughly recommended.

Photo's of this past climb will follow once I'm at a more permanent location, meanwhile look up Etat de Choc, Petit Clocher de Portalet on the web...prepare to be inspired.