I wasn't 7a fit then, I climbed like shit on it by not using momentum at all and went left instead of right off the top of the column: tangenting slightly right seemed closer to 7a/7a+ at the time and was a lot more pleasant. Seems like an age ago but I reckon I'd nail it right now, I've had a good past week and I'm starting to sharpen up.
Got a grade PB early in the week then bagged a 7a+ that's a local benchmark yesterday, I took a ground up lower off after falls approach to it and ended up in a real ding dong battle. 2 days ago I fell with my finger on the lip of the final crux's mono on attempt 3 of the day...bizarrely it went yesterday in a stroll, 3rd day on! 3 days of 3 attempts and 9 falls, definitely "Made in Jura".
After my send I belayed Fabrice on "Les Animaux Claxon" his first ever 7b+ in the Jura and it was a real fight; he nailed it through sheer determination. Awesome. To put it into perspective, he's done 7c/+ a lot elsewhere, grew up here and puts in a lot of days locally. I was honoured to be part of it, he was one happy man!
SO sore today, bruised tips and big toes, scraped left arm from a big fall late yesterday, mentally I'd love to go climbing before the rain hits tonight but my body can't face it.
Really good site this one, I'll take a pano photo and insert it here over the weekend. |