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Ozymandias Direct May 2009 12-May-2009 At 1:12:01 PM brendan

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On 12/05/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On another thread I wrote;
>>(*any chance of a Trip Report as well?)
>
>~> Excellent stuff brendan (& Jason).

>A three day ascent is a good effort indeed for that amount of experience.
>It seems to me that Jason did particularly well considering his first
>aid climb was the day before, and he got his share of leading on Ozy!

yeah jason put in a really solid effort, we had been talking about aiding before and are both pretty strong trad climbers/mountaineers (i had messed around abit with aid, rope solo'ing "vertigio M4" in canberra and "gladiator M4" in adelaide before the climb but he hadnt done much aiding except reading a couple of books, hence why we took a while on the route)
>
>The static at the top of Defender (if the same bit that was there last
>January), seems a bit festy to me. Probably OK, but the bleached colour
>does not inspire confidence.
>
there was two bits of static a shit old pink one and a brand new white staic with mallion, we were prepared to fix one of our ropes but felt confident in the new bit of static backed up by the old bit

>A minor point; The traverse from Gledhill via the (atrocious) carrots
>is to the right.
>
yeah thats right the traverse heads right via carrots then goes up then back left

>>then start up in the offwidth, this was not much fun and required a downclimb
>to free a stuck rope

the rope actually fliped a small rock over and it got stuck on this, i downclimbed then freed it then actually used the number 5 cam to stop it from going back in the crack

>~> I would bet that you got it caught on a large cam that you had left
>at the turn of the crack through the lip?
>
>>He set up the haul line to some bolts on the left so we didn’t have to
>haul the bags up the chimney,
>
>Many parties haul from the bolts located to right of base of the chimney.
>If chimney is done first and the bolts on Wilkinson ledge are used for
>hauling, they are located (also) at RH end-ish of that ledges long side.
>
>
>Being familiar with the route I can relate to many of the simple statements
>that you have made in your trip report. There is much behind some
>of those lines!
>
yeah there are many things i dint mention, like the fact that i have been sick as a dog for the past week and physically couldnt lead all the pitches hence why Jason stepped up to lead half the climb, the fact we got busted by the rangers for camping where we shouldnt have and stuff like that
>
>X-ref to a thread associated with this TR.
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>evanbb wrote;
>>How long is the drive down from Canberra? Just moved here and realised
>that Buffalo is now within striking distance.
>
>I would allow 6 ½ hrs (legal limit) travel (includes a fuel stop), centre
>of Canberra to Buffalo Chalet.
>
yeah allow yourself 6 hours or so to head down there, i just moved back to canberra so if your keen to head out for a climb or any questions, or whatever let me know