Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
The Ravine 18.10.08 21-Oct-2008 At 11:10:11 PM MichaelOR
Message
Neil, Miss Communication is left of Little George at the crag (see your topo, which is correct - it is clear from it). But in the list of routes it appears right of Little George. Also the actual route numbers in the list of route descriptions are out of order (ie 4 is listed ahead of 3). In fact that might be the problem.
Adam's 24, Felonies Under The Radar, doesn't have a route number at this stage and isn't on the topo. That's OK, but is it easily fixed?
When I printed off the Print Text version of the guide for the VCC trip, Little George still appeared left of Miss Communication.

Incidentally, I reckon that the best route of the crag is Ranger Danger (24). It has a hard start on perfect rock, and then has a hard finish. Both Steve and I managed to avoid the dyno at the end of the route and static the last move to the big horizontal jug. But that wouldn't surprise you either! Your route description says: "At halfway head slightly right to hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs"
I reckon the description should say "at half height, move right to a good rest. Then move up to clip the ringbolt, and then on to the crux dyno. Finish on steep jugs." The holds and chalk naturally lead right to the rest. Moving up to clip the ring isn't too bad as the clipping hold can be matched and is good! Not scary in my opinion. BUT if you were to climb the RB to RB path it probably would be scary as the climbing would be harder! The chalk and features show the natural line of least resistance pretty clearly now!

We didn't jump on Little George this trip, but it is a fabulous route also ....... and at the tough end of 23! How did it start its life graded 22?

Consensus amongst the VCC group was that Afluenza was 20, and no where near 21. Everyone started it on the left, at jugs, with all the chalk, and moved into the line. A direct start below the ring at 21 seems very unlikely. The mantle move over the bulge was the hardest move and most thought 20 was on the money.

Hope this all helps!
Michael

There are 22 replies to this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints