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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!
Topic
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Date |
User
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The Ravine 18.10.08 |
21-Oct-2008 At 11:10:11 PM |
MichaelOR
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Message |
Neil, Miss Communication is left of Little George at the crag (see your topo, which is correct - it is clear from it). But in the list of routes it appears right of Little George. Also the actual route numbers in the list of route descriptions are out of order (ie 4 is listed ahead of 3). In fact that might be the problem.
Adam's 24, Felonies Under The Radar, doesn't have a route number at this stage and isn't on the topo. That's OK, but is it easily fixed?
When I printed off the Print Text version of the guide for the VCC trip, Little George still appeared left of Miss Communication.
Incidentally, I reckon that the best route of the crag is Ranger Danger (24). It has a hard start on perfect rock, and then has a hard finish. Both Steve and I managed to avoid the dyno at the end of the route and static the last move to the big horizontal jug. But that wouldn't surprise you either! Your route description says: "At halfway head slightly right to hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs"
I reckon the description should say "at half height, move right to a good rest. Then move up to clip the ringbolt, and then on to the crux dyno. Finish on steep jugs." The holds and chalk naturally lead right to the rest. Moving up to clip the ring isn't too bad as the clipping hold can be matched and is good! Not scary in my opinion. BUT if you were to climb the RB to RB path it probably would be scary as the climbing would be harder! The chalk and features show the natural line of least resistance pretty clearly now!
We didn't jump on Little George this trip, but it is a fabulous route also ....... and at the tough end of 23! How did it start its life graded 22?
Consensus amongst the VCC group was that Afluenza was 20, and no where near 21. Everyone started it on the left, at jugs, with all the chalk, and moved into the line. A direct start below the ring at 21 seems very unlikely. The mantle move over the bulge was the hardest move and most thought 20 was on the money.
Hope this all helps!
Michael
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