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Repeat and retrobolt best easy route at Buffalo 12-Mar-2008 At 9:24:52 PM hipster

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On 10/03/2008 jgoding wrote:
>I suggest you ask yourself why many of the bold lines have none if any
>bolts. It's often a simple case that the first ascentionists don't have
>access to a drill or can't be stuffed with the cost and effort. It takes
>a lot of time, training, energy and money to equip routes well. Sometimes
>people go back and retrobolt routes to make them more user friendly. Sometimes
>they don't. It's always been up to the first ascentionist.
Why have you retro-bolted without the first ascentionists approval then?? That's gotta stop.
>
>If there is a precedent of bold lines in an area does that mean that there
>is no room for anything but bold lines? I think not. I think there should
>be some choice.
Bold,bold,bold...blah blah blah. I've said it before, the mix is fine between bold and well protected. Most people who frequent there like it as it is.There's room for everything up there. What there's not room for is over-bolted lines close to the established ones, or over-bolted "user-friendly" routes. Buffalo is an adventure climbing area, a route bolted to onsight safely is fine by me. Yep, there's been some bad bolting up there, but they're few and far between. The greater problem is lichen and dirt coming back from inactivity, not danger...
>
>Mt Buffalo is a wonderful place, and to have no user friendly easier lines
>seems like a great tragedy to me.
>
>Ever wondered why the bolts get closer as the grades get harder? i.e "well"
>bolted 23+ routes? Perhaps Buffalo is not such a great example but I hope
>you understand my point.
Buffalo is a very bad example, they definitely don't get closer

>There are and have been a lot of opportunities which have for the most part ended up with
>lots of very bold easier lines.
Why..because a physically (and/or mentally) stronger climber has put them up ground up...respect the past.
>
>I also ask you this - when you put up a new climb should you consider
>others, or do it with as little protection as you think is ok for you,
>and if very few others can repeat the line in that style then so be it?
If you go ground up you please yourself. If you rap and bolt then do it responsibly..put in enough in the right places so it can be onsighted. But if it's a 22 slab and there's some run-out grade 19 climbing,well that's fine by me. That's the nature of Buffalo climbing, all through the grades. >
>
>I certainly try to keep other people in mind and equip the routes I choose
>to put up accordingly. I've made some mistakes sure, but hey don't we all?
>I suggest you consider the intention as well as the outcome before going
>off guns blazing on the attack.
Going off guns blazing I haven't, but will now. Why did you retro bolt Shellshocked without the first ascentionist's approval? It had already been retro bolted and everyone was happy, except you and your partner( who was trying to tick the route)...
>