Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User

Mt Buffalo new routes @ Mackeys Lookout 30-Jan-2008 At 8:28:22 AM jgoding

Message

Good Morning,

here is a very brief write up of some new routes established over the long weekend at Mackeys lookout (10min walk in with beautiful stream you can enjoy on a hot day). A beautiful cliff. Topo available if you just want to e-mail me with a request. I can send you a 900k jpeg version or 4.3meg high res PDF. Thanks to all who contributed to the equipping work and costs.

Be aware that the previously established routes are all very bold. Unless you are a highly competent climber who enjoys the thrill of running it out I would only recommend these new routes:

A fundamental difference of opinion
P1) 42m 16*: Start at small curving ledge (DBB). Sustained enjoyable face climbing on thin rails. Follow the white streak past 8 BR crossing large flakes at 3/4 height. 5m below belay scoop traverse right along break to weakness on right. FA Josef Goding, Nicholas Allan, Michael Milne 28.01.2008 *Need 10 x bolt plates.
P2) 55m 15** Start at lovely belay scoop (DBB with double captive rap rings). Up prominent white streak, directly above belay. Very thin, balancy, and sustained. Would be easier if cool or in overcast conditions. DBB with link chain and single captive rap ring. FA Michael Milnes, Josef Goding, Nicholas Allan 28.01.2008 *all glue in ring bolts.
P3) 25m 7: Straight up from belay crossing small overlap. 2 glue in ring bolts. Ends at DBB (each with captive rap ring) on easy to get to large boulder at top of cliff, roughly level with the waterfall where it briefly goes vertical.

No Ego
Starts roughly 6m to the right (facing the cliff) of the first pitch of A fundamental difference of opinion, which is also the same belay as for the top of the 1st pitch of dry weather road (Which belayed here using the single mild steel bolt). Up rib (first bolt has fixed D shackle and bolt plate) passing white slab, moving below and right of small tree. Tend left up to belay. 8 bolts on route (all with fixed hangers). DBB with single captive ring on each. FA Nicholas Allan, Josef Goding, Michael Milnes. 28.01.2008