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My trip to the Blue Mountains by Jono - 5/10/3 8-Oct-2003 At 1:23:02 PM jono

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Once upon a time...

Welcome to my very first trip report. For those that don't know who I am the mystery shall remain, however, that will all soon change when I'm arrested for my criminal neglect of good climbing technique!

Anyway, last weekend I bailed to Sydney and hooked up with this climber by the name of Steve Hawkshaw. I had only ever sent a few emails to Steve yet there I was knocking on his door at 8am on Sunday ready for a short guided tour of the Blue Mountains. In my short climbing life I've been simply amazed at how bloody nice the climbing community is, however, I think it's a bit selfish that Neil just doesn't give me his car and climbing rack when I ask for it!

The drive to the Blue Mountains is only two hours from Sydney and you never really feel that you've left civilisation because this place is as populated as the Dandenong Mountains...you can even get there by public transport. Our destination was Blackheath and to one of the most popular crags in the Blue Mountains, the Upper Shipley walls. As I stared at the first climb "The Bandoline Grip (18 18m)" I could confirm all rumours that almost every square metre of rock was indeed bolted. The man responsible for much of the rebolting there was a guy called Mitch who in the last year or so has replaced or added no less than 1400 of them...respect! The fact that every climb is replete with it's own abseil station also meant that there was no need to second and so I took the chance to lead our first climb after Steve placed the draws. "The Bandoline Grip" was a pleasant face climb and introduction to the Blue Mountains. "Jack High (19 20m)" was next on the tick list and I almost laughed when two climbers started up routes only a metre either side of me. With their mates calling "that’s not your hold" you can understand that it's only too easy to go off route. That said, these climbs are certainly not contrived, it's just that there are so many good lines! "Jack High" was a good bag on beautiful rock but then again I do love those crimpy face climbs. My feet free technique had me fighting a bit harder on "Country Special (19 18m)" but I was rewarded with another sensational climb just before the rain set in.

Fortunately the Blackheath area is blessed with walls that can be climbed in any weather. Although the Upper Shipley walls face directly into the sun this makes it a favourable winter destination, alternatively, Centennial Glenn is comparatively shaded and overhung and would provide the perfect retreat from the rain and summer heat. So it was a mass exodus from the Upper Shipley and a 10min walk to Centennial Glenn. Along the way Steve stopped for another attempt at "Madge McDonald (25 15m)". The start involves a bouldery throw from a crimper and then a mega sustained and overhung crimp fest traversing left then right. I think it was the last bolt that required a backwards clip and it was this that was Steve's undoing.

Onwards march to Wave wall and I quickly realised that this was one of the more popular destinations in the area. The sandstone rock at Wave wall is orange and overhung and the routes are closer to 20+m. It was the most impressive wall I saw with some superb lines through some short horizontal sections. "Splash Wave (23 20m)" looked to be one of the best picks but I wasn't concerned that there was already someone on it. In fact, the only route I could climb that was within my reach was "Hang Five (21 20m)" at the far left of the main wall. The traverse left at the start was all fine but the short scramble in the middle was damn average and from watching Steve lead I knew it had a pumpy finish…I succumb to the pump trying to pull for the last jug while on top rope. I really wanted to get on to "Jaws (21 15m)", a nice steep juggy haul on the far right of Wave wall, but it was booked solid. Instead we trekked 50m to Woodpecker wall for the self titled climb "Woodpecker (22 18m)". This looked to be your average steep crimp to jug kind of climbing so I opted for the lead. The start pretty much involves a no feet campus from a pocket to a big jug and on the second attempt I nailed it fine. The climb continued to go fine and I was even using some technique but the pump got me again as I was trying to pull from another crimp to a good hold at the crux. I dogged up it but was still chuffed with my attempt.

The sun was shining again and so we headed back to Upper Shipley for an encore performance. I was damn keen to tick something hard and so I jumped on "Girly Germs (21 15m)". It felt like I sat there for all of eternity under clinging this big pocket at the second bolt and desperately trying to find the moves. Yes I was spat off but I didn't chuck a Kent. It was Murphy's law that straight after I worked out the moves which, not surprisingly, required some delicate footwork to prevent the barn door. After this it was a delicate and sustained face climb on nice crimps which provided some reward for my failing. I personally recommend "Girly Germs" for anyone planning a visit. At this stage I figured I was getting to the end of my endurance and was happy just to belay Steve for his well earned onsight of "Language of Desire (24 20m)". If his moans and groans were anything to go by then it was the last five metres of enduro crimping that were the hardest on what he described as an otherwise "excellent" climb. To finish on a high I decided to tick something good and proper and for that I chose "Weekend Warrior (19 20m)". I battled through the no feet traverse at the start and battled a bit more on the crimps but it was victory all the way! The only thing on my mind now was the tasty cold pie from the Blackheath bakery sitting in Steve's car! I'd also like to recommend this bakery for those visiting.

As a final note and for those who are interested, I just wanted confirm the second rumour that "yes" the rock at the Blue Mountains, in particular the Blackheath area, is not of the same high quality as the Grampians or Arapiles but it is certainly way better than Werribee Gorge. Generally the sandstone was comparatively softer and quite coarse with large silica grains making some holds quite sharp and painful. Shale had also sedimented over time in a few short and discrete bands and this stuff gave a high score on the choss-o-meter. It is for this reason that trad gear is never trusted in the Blue Mountains and why almost every climb is bolted. So if you're planning a trip just bring a small rack and lots of draws, the Blue Mountains is a sport climbing mecca. The most interesting feature of the rock were the grey ironstone dyke-like bands that provided some of the best crimps ever and characterised much of the climbing on the Upper Shipley walls. If you like crimpy face climbs and a walk in no longer than 10min then I recommend this wall otherwise walk another 10min to Wave wall for some steeper and longer climbs. The smokers will also be happy to hear that the walking track directly intersects with almost every wall in the Blackheath area so there is no chance you may accidentally get fit. Ther Upper Shipley is also possibly the easiest wall with many climbs under grade 20 right through to 25+ but beware as it is apparently only too popular. To really enjoy the Blue mountains you would want to be a sport climbing nutter that warms up on a grade 23. Flicking through the guide I would say that 80% of the climbs are grade 23-28. That said I don't know why Jacqui doesn't just move to the Blue Mountains...I can take the rejection you know that's why we have Prozac.

One last thing I forgot to mention from the guide book are the "bat" symbols. These are climbs that you have to first "bat" your way through delicate and steep vegetation to get to the rock. Mitch had pinned pine logs to the wall of many such climbs to preserve the vegetation and I think "batting" is generally frowned upon so perhaps this is