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Wot I did on my summer holidays

gfdonc

30-Jan-2006
5:01:08 PM

In case you're interested:
Went to Austria, skied telemark under blue skies for 4 days. Brilliant.
Went to Germany and watched my first ice hockey game at -8C. Berlin beat Augsburg 4-2.
Went to Liechtenstein, had 2 major powder days with 25cm and a blizzard. Managed to get the rental car back down the mountain without the use of chains.
Camped in a snow cave at 2600m. Stripped off and jumped in a spa at -10C in a windstorm/spindrift. I will not be repeating this stunt.

Stopped off in Thailand on the way home to thaw out. Went to Railay, where my wife and daughter happily found a beach and a pool, and I happened to find boots, harness and chalkbag were in my suitcase. Paid some Baht to join 2 Canadians and a local guide on a day of limestone sport climbing. Guide was happy to kick back and let me play leader all day. Led 5 routes, 3 easy 5's (somewhere around grade 15?) and two 6b's (first one 19 or 20 and the last possibly 21), no falls.

Longer trip report & pics might follow. Observations:
1. Grigris are bad, mmokay? I say this partly to spark controversy among the grigri-lovers around the forum, partly as a cautionary note. My point is, I saw people (professional guides even) belaying *no hands* assuming the grigri will hold the fall. Shudder.

2. I finally find a suitable definition of "sport climb": any route with a lower-off.

3. Limestone is sharp! My tips were getting sore after 5 pitches, although no climbing for a month before, plus a day in the pool may not have helped.

Nice to be back. Well, maybe I'm just saying that to be polite. Where are all the Buffalo trip reports?
- Steve

maxdacat

30-Jan-2006
8:12:26 PM

Yes this northern winter seems to be quite cool....this weekend however I managed two days of sport climbing in the sth of england under perfrect blue skies (and top temps of 2deg) and next weekend will do an ice course in la grave.

- agree about crappy gri-gri technique (particularly in thailand)....it's not down to the device but the user i reckon.

James

30-Jan-2006
9:52:26 PM

which crags did you climb at steve? I only found a small portion of Tonsai limestone sharp.

gfdonc

30-Jan-2006
10:43:49 PM

Perhaps not sharp, more "gritty" enough to give me tender tips after 5 routes. On sandstone this would not be an issue.
Was on 1-2-3 wall on the East side.

shaggy

31-Jan-2006
6:24:07 PM

On 30/01/2006 gfdonc wrote:

>I saw people (professional guides even) belaying *no hands* assuming
>the grigri will hold the fall.

How else can you hold a bong and change the cd player at the same time?

WM

31-Jan-2006
8:34:21 PM

>I saw people (professional guides even) belaying *no hands* assuming the grigri will hold the fall.

Bit like this guy who's assuming that if he digs a trench in the sand with his face back to the base of the route it will hold a fall:

But at least he's holding the rope...

shaggy

31-Jan-2006
10:02:58 PM

classic, thats awesome belay techniques! If only he was holding a bong and trying to change the cd at the same time!

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