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Gravel Pit Tor, the You Yangs

gfdonc

11-Oct-2004
1:29:17 PM

Trip Report – Gravel Pit Tor, the You Yangs, 13 October

‘Twas fate, for sure, proposing a trip to GPT for the day after the election. Having originally put up A Question of Ethics the day after the Fraser government was returned in October ’83, wasn’t it asking history to repeat itself by planning a return visit last Sunday? Sure enough, little Johnny is back in power. Nevertheless, we resolved to set politics aside, load the car with as much climbing gear as we could find, and go practice some aid climbing.

First up was a toprope down A Q of E (20). The original intention was to lead it, but I baulked at climbing up to the first bolt unprotected, prompting discussions about retrobolting and the need to contact all members of the original ascent party. No falls, so was the toprope justified? Rather than find out, we unpacked the rest of our booty underneath the overhangs of Orpheus in the Underworld (M5) and I proceeded to thrash around in etriers for the first time in many years.

Some easy placements and a good large hex led to a secure enough #2 Friend, then the fun began. A small wire in a suspect placement, then a mid-size Crack’n’ up and a #1 RP led to the bolt where I managed to sling a flake to gain the horizontal crack line and the wider crack above. A couple more Friend placements, then a #4 Rock deep inside the offwidth and progress was looking good. The continual dangling (the route is about 25 degrees overhung) was taking its toll on my back (oh, for a padded harness!) but so far I was more than half way up the wider section and with a 4.5 inch tube, a #4 Friend and a big. hex to spare.

In the end none of these were needed,with another mid-size Friend deep in the crack, then a very suspect 1.5 Friend at the very end, where the crack flared downwards before shutting down completely. Reaching around the lip I looked for the old bolts, but there was only one, and nearly a metre out of reach. Damn! I looked around for a hook placement, or something, but I was dangling around with no visible means of further ascent. Eventually I found a reasonable #2 RP placement between two knobs, which made some cracking noises as a weighted it, but stayed put. The bolt was old and very rusty (circa 1978?) but held my weight .. just don’t lean outwards.

I was expecting a bolt ladder from this point but there was nothing! It was possible to free climb from there (grade 18-20 perhaps) but the weight of gear and some terrible rope drag were going to make it difficult. Plus, the thought of taking a plummet onto that bolt didn’t entice me. So, out with the Leeper hook, and, positioning it fearfully on a 0.5cm ledge, stepped up on it. From there a #5 RP behind a small flake and I was home.

Tied off on the two belay bolts, retrieved the ets and went down to watch my second clean the route. What fun! Anthony’s introduction to cleaning overhung aid was the source of much amusement to me, as he thrashed around, cursing, and getting a dose of Elvis leg as he struggled to reclip his jumars while passing gear. Photos to come. Eventually with some coaching from below he adjusted his setup to make some progress.

It had been a late start, and Orpheus had been slow, so after just two routes it was 5pm. We were still keen, though, so raced up Asylum for the Insane (17) and were back at the car before the daylight faded.
- Steve

dalai

11-Oct-2004
3:37:17 PM

Nice report Steve... and I always thought the A Question of Ethics was so named because it needed bolts, not because of Australian politics!!
It would be dissapointing if you did add a bolt down low on that climb. The runout to the first bolt is all part of it's character, and is easy enough to setup as a Toprope if you don't want to lead.

Will be great to see the photo's...

gfdonc

11-Oct-2004
5:03:08 PM

As I think I posted somewhere before, my climbing partner at the time wanted to name it Back in Power, which I forcefully poo-poohed.
The Ethics in question were the bolts, I spent quite a while on jumars working out the bolt placements to minimise the bolts yet avoid a groundfall. 20 years later it still seems about right, but highball bouldering to start.

Dave C

11-Oct-2004
7:46:04 PM

I agree, the bolting is a bout right on Question of Ethics. It's the best slab route in the You-Yangs and the start is part of the character of the route. Am I right in thinking there has been a bit of general moaning about the 1st bolts on other routes in the area? If so, everyone should just take their crash mats and not look to add more bolts. I know of 3 routes I equipped back in the 80s that have high 1st bolts and wouldn't want to find any more added. Crash mats or a cheat stick are a better solution than adding bolts.

James

11-Oct-2004
10:09:18 PM

don't add another bolt - you'll ruin a classic if you do.

Robin

12-Oct-2004
6:55:54 AM

Definitely agree that climbing to the first bolt is part of the character of the route and should remain unchanged. When I did the climb many years ago there was a long stick beside the climb. I thought the ethical dilema was to stick clip or to climb to the first bolt.

Dave C

12-Oct-2004
7:32:59 AM

On 12/10/2004 Robin wrote:
When I did the climb many years ago there was a long stick beside the climb. I thought the ethical dilema was to stick clip or to climb to the first bolt.

The cheat stick appeared in the mid-80s and was still there when I was last at GPT in 1992. I have a pic of a certain well-known climber using it to clip the 1st bolt for his then girlfriend back in 1985.
Guess who the climber was & I'll send it to Mike to put on the site! It's good for a laugh.

gfdonc

12-Oct-2004
12:00:57 PM

On 11/10/2004 James wrote:
>don't add another bolt - you'll ruin a classic if you do.

Wasn't serious, don't panic.
Didn't know about the stick, didn't look for one either. With some new rubber (still climbing on my 12yo Scarpas, but not for much longer!) I'd give it a shot 'next time'.
- Steve

dalai

12-Oct-2004
12:33:15 PM

As the route was established before the fires, was the start to the first bolt any easier?

IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Oct-2004
2:12:44 PM

gfdonc
>and go practice some aid climbing (snip) Anthony’s introduction to cleaning overhung aid
Ahh, you fellows warm the c--kles of my heart! Cracknups and later #2 RP between knobs -> is making me thirsty for similar !
... I need to 'get the fitness back' before the silly season sets in properly, if I am to keep up with you at Buff !
Great TR gfdonc.

gfdonc

12-Oct-2004
4:24:03 PM

On 12/10/2004 dalai wrote:
>As the route was established before the fires, was the start to the first
>bolt any easier?

What fires? I must have been living overseas at that time.
I think the answer is 'no'. My recollection is that the landing wasn't as flat at the base as it is now.
On one attempt my fearful leader (I placed the bolts, he got to clip them) jumped from near the first bolt, landed on the small ledge but then bounded further down the gully, all without injury, proving the placement was 'safe'. =:o

dalai

12-Oct-2004
4:32:39 PM

BA I am sure will have a definite answer to the year of the fires, 85 seems to ring a bell (will check the guidebook tonight)... It was the fires which uncovered alot of the rock and spurred on development of the area. The heat also damaged the start of many established problems - hence the query

Dave C

12-Oct-2004
5:42:32 PM

The fires were in early 1985. I remember it as my family were evacuated from Little River that afternoon. The effects of the fire were exacerbated by a huge thunderstorm only a month later that dumped over 3 inches of rain in 90 minutes! The erosion was extraordinary.
The worst fire damage to existing routes was done around the Figleaf area with some pretty big flakes exfoliating off over the next year or two. I don't think the start of QOE was badly affected.

dalai

12-Oct-2004
5:46:14 PM

Thanks for the clarification David.

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