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TR: Ozymandias Direct 16-19 March 2020 10-Apr-2020 At 11:25:21 AM One Day Hero

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Nice one Nick, good write up.

>I'm impressed at the speed that some
>people seem to be able to aid up these pitches; we were very slow in comparison.
>It took us three and a half days from the base to the lookout.

First time I climbed Ozy was a 12hr day walking in and climbing to Big Grassy, followed by an 18hr day from Big Grassy to the top. We were physically and mentally destroyed.

Second time (a couple of years later) was a 14hr round trip from Lake Catani, walked down climbed out, back in time for dinner. It felt like a pleasant day of normal climbing rather than a screaming epic.

After the first lap you'll know what to take and what not to take. Lightening the load makes a world of difference. There's also a lot less doubt and fear the second time. You're not standing in your aiders for minutes at a time trying to psych up for the next move while worrying about dying. You already know that there's good gear up there somewhere because it worked out last time, so it's much easier to shut the voices out and just get on with the job.

>At the top of the crack I clipped a dodgy carrot and then did a free mantle
>and was then faced with the ramp. I tried to go up it but I couldn’t do
>it in my boots (I'll definitely wear free climbing shoes for this pitch
>next time).

Sticky rubber approach shoes seem ideal for this stuff, I never understood aiding in actual boots. Five tennies are usually better for wide cracks than "proper climbing shoes", and they're completely fine for easy slabs too.