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Weekend TR: Rosea, The Stinger Variant 19-Sep-2019 At 6:19:54 PM andy parker

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Hey great trip report!

It's prompted me to tell you about another multi-pitch experience last month at Bellfield Peak, namely "Slopover" (grade 14). This climb also features in your new book.

Anyway it was a freezing Saturday about 4 weeks ago, so we decided to have a coffee in Halls Gap before heading off - Mistake no.1.

By the time we had found the 60 m. rap point it was about midday. By the time I had unravelled the ropes that got stuck in every tree/bush/crevice on the way down and my buddy Jim had also descended it was about 12.30.

Welcome to the land that time forgot! I don't think anyone has climbed this route since 2008 - bushes everywhere, but we found the climb which is initialled and I began the lead on pitch 1 at 1pm - can you see where this is going?

The first pitch is correctly graded in my view and features loose rock, lichen, moss and some bushes, but I made it unscathed and Jim came up for the second pitch (crux).

This pitch starts off easy but has a very committing traverse with no feet and scared the hell out of me on second. I think it's grade 15. I lead the third pitch which features a slopey overhang and then a reasonable wall. However by this time it was getting to about 5-6pm.

There has been no traffic on this route for years which may explain how we managed somehow to lose the route as it became darker and darker. Luckily there was a full moon that night because after losing the route we were forced to aid climb up a horrible left facing crack. My head torch batteries ran out so when it became my turn to lead again I had to swap helmets with Jim. Finally we could see the top of the 110m. climb but I was stuck trying to climb over a horrible overhang - again with no feet. The alternative was a really difficult off width which I couldn't get into to even start.

So I bought up Jim and let him finish the route off, which he did by aiding the off width! Hooray!! It was only 10.30pm and by the time we made it back to the car park. it was midnight. We were both frozen, having expected to (optimistically) finish the climb by 6pm and not being dressed for an overnighter on a cliff face. Anyway we made it back and had a quick beer and bag of chips in the car with the heater on before crashing out.

The next day it rained which was lucky because we were both completely knackered!

Tip for anyone doing a multi pitch from "Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide" - give yourself plenty of time and if it's not "Debutante" or "Heretic" expect a lot of moss, lichen and loose rock!