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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 16-Apr-2018 At 3:18:57 PM bigchris

Message

We must have been typing at the same time! I missed this one :D

On 16-Apr-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 14-Apr-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>> My point is/was, many people
>>have bypassed this climb due to lack of interest, skill or gear. Or maybe
>>even plain old fear. Why hasn't anyone climbed it before?
>
>Because it's a difficult climb in an unpleasant style on disgusting rock
>with no natural pro and rap-bolting cracks has been a huge ethical no-no
>since the 1970s.

A clean cut, razor sharp, beautiful offwidth/chimney on orange Mt Buffalo gold, with totally amazing stacking, chicken winging, knee barring and heel-toe jamming while single-handedly destroying every piece of clothing and gear that you're wearing. It's clearly not your cup of tea, but it is mine and I'd have it no other way. In between the grunts and screams, it can be some of the most technical, beautiful and elegant climbing styles around. What's not to love!

>
>>it's not going to be a trade route of any kind
>
>You don't say. It'll maybe get another ascent or two while it's in the
>news, then less than one per decade for the rest of forever. Also, people
>will have to rap clean it prior to climbing, because the moss and leaf
>litter will return in a couple of years.

Considering that no one has been up it since the beginning of time, it wasn't really that dirty. I didn't even need a brush to clean it :D

Offwidth crack climbing is a thing. And you may hate or you may love it. But just because you think it's unpleasant won't stop people from throwing their carcasses in them and that's what it's all about.