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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 14-Apr-2018 At 7:21:27 PM Miguel75

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On 13-Apr-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 13-Apr-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>>Super stoked for your BigChris. It’s a proud line (snip)
>
>+1
>>
>>For all those who are happy to bang on about the desecration these bolts
>>represent, you’ve had 50+ years to get on it and climb it in a style
>that
>>you consider worthy (snip)
>
>I can see the dis-join arising here in that the younger climber of today
>hasn’t been born long enough ago to fulfill that statement due either not
>being in existence or not learning climbing with that older yardstick.

haha, I realize my late night rant wasn't as salient as I could have been; there are a few climbers who've been around 50+ years, who probably could climb this should they choose. (I was being hyperbolic though I guess you're on that list eh Rod, hehehe) I appreciate the yardstick that's been established, for those who follow to measure themselves against. I can't quite elucidate on what I'm wanting to say as my brain feels damaged but I will try to come back to this at a later date to expound my argument:)

Not too long ago I was pulling bolts out of some egregiously bolted Buffalo climbs with other DCA agents and realise my stance on these bolts may be dichotomous though maybe I'm getting injured too often and need to feel safe. Or maybe I've been hit in the head too many times and can't remember exactly what it was I'm raging against. Either way, Chris did something pretty awesome and some people wish to denigrate that because he made it safer for those who may chose to follow him. My point is/was, many people have bypassed this climb due to lack of interest, skill or gear. Or maybe even plain old fear. Why hasn't anyone climbed it before? I'm guessing it's not going to be a trade route of any kind as I reckon it's too terrifying and brutal to appeal to most climbers.
>>
>>MartyM and Jay, you guys are happy to have a casual dig about the number,
>>and placements, of the bolts but have either of you tried it? Once you
>>two go climb it a-la Mark Davies, in the pic of Monarch, then you can
>pontificate
>>all you like;)
>>
>The others can speak for themselves however the fact that you cited the
>Monarch example is proof positive of the existence of the earlier yardstick
>and dare I say a level of achievement to aspire too.

I agree with the existing yardstick Rod, we should aspire to climb in a way that challenges us though balance that with the belief that a modicum of safety isn't a bad thing, especially when the necessary gear for a climb like this is few and far between. Monarch looks rad and I'd love to know how many people on here have actually climbed it; I'm tipping not many. What I'm not a fan of are people who like to sit in judgement of those who've hopped off the keyboard and done something awesome. If they're happy to put their keyboards where their mouth's are I'll happily pull my head in:)

>Not everyone is an Alex Honnold, but none the less I can think of a number
>of climbers, who if they had cared to climb that line, would probably have
>done so in a bolder style than that dictated by today’s shorter measure
>style.

I reckon you're right, there are some who could have done it in a style that terrifies most people, though for whatever reason they didn't. Chris snaffled the FFA, Tim Lockwood snagged the second ascent. Chris and Philly are the only two people who've obsessed over this line with enough motivation to give it a red hot crack and have decided that 4 bolts work. Maybe two bolts are sufficient. Maybe they aren't necessary at all... All I know is I wont be leading it anytime soon and neither will quite a few of the people having a dig:)

>Regardless, the positive aspect of this ascent is that Typhon in its current
>state may well turn out to be a popular stepping stone to the older style
>for generations that follow.

I hope you're right Rod, maybe Typhon will herald a resurgence of offwidth mania. Maybe a few Chockstoners will jump on this fad:)