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Topic Date User

TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 13-Apr-2018 At 10:12:08 PM bigchris

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On 13-Apr-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 13-Apr-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>>Super stoked for your BigChris. It’s a proud line (snip)
>
>+1
>>

Yay!

>>For all those who are happy to bang on about the desecration these bolts
>>represent, you’ve had 50+ years to get on it and climb it in a style
>that
>>you consider worthy (snip)
>
>I can see the dis-join arising here in that the younger climber of today
>hasn’t been born long enough ago to fulfill that statement due either not
>being in existence or not learning climbing with that older yardstick.

Yes and true. However I dont entirely think it's relevant? Maybe it is, maybe it's not. I raised a point the other day with another climber (who's got the second ascent), that if drills were around in the early days, there would be a heap more bolts about. The "old yardstick" isn't going to hang around forever because I can't do anything about when I was born. I've only been climbing for around 6 years or something.

I also think that this is one reason why people.dont climb at Buffalo - they think it's run out and dangerous.
>
>
>>
>>MartyM and Jay, you guys are happy to have a casual dig about the number,
>>and placements, of the bolts but have either of you tried it? Once you
>>two go climb it a-la Mark Davies, in the pic of Monarch, then you can
>pontificate
>>all you like;)

Agree. Internet trolls are just that. Trolls. Jayford/gnaguts or whoever you are will unlikely sack up and lead it.

>>
>The others can speak for themselves however the fact that you cited the Monarch example is proof positive of the existence of the earlier yardstick
>and dare I say a level of achievement to aspire too.

I don't agree with you on this one Rod. Running a whole pitch with no gear is not smart. There's a reason no one climbs Monarch - no gear. I'd love to give it a go, but I won't be if it's not protectable. On a side note, I dont even know how to get to the bottom of it :D

>
>Not everyone is an Alex Honnold, but none the less I can think of a number
>of climbers, who if they had cared to climb that line, would probably have
>done so in a bolder style than that dictated by today’s shorter measure
>style.

You know what? There probably are many climbers that would climb it in a bolder style than me but like mike said, they didnt. After breaking my back (yes, literally) and seperating my shoulder (grade 3/4) in August last year, I was not interested in the slightest in injuring myself. I wanted that climb, and as the First Ascensionist I did what was necessary to keep me, my wife and my friends safe, just like any responsible climber should do in my opinion.

Being bold is great, and being dead or munted is not. There's only 4 bolts over 35ish meters. None on the slab, none in the bottom of the cave, and only bolts on the face. I actually climbed it from Agrippa because that's where the comfortable belay was for my Belayer.

>
>Regardless, the positive aspect of this ascent is that Typhon in its current
>state may well turn out to be a popular stepping stone to the older style
>for generations that follow.

I agree. And for people that don't have access to wide gear will still find it run out as f**k and pants-shittingly scary. It's bold as all hell. Also, if people think they're pro enough, they're definitely welcome to not clip the bolts and just look at them on the way past.

**********************

For the record, the technology of a drill and bolts to keep you safe is brilliant. So is trad gear. I'll use either where necessary.

I also pulled the lip of Country Road and then fell out of the headwall. Those bolts need to be replaced. Or even for historical value, it would be much easier if they stayed where they were and two bolts were put in the wall to the right. That's an accident/death waiting to happen (we actually had a couple of cams in the crack which made the belay freaking uncomfortable - but you get my point).

Anyway, that's my 2cents late on a Friday night. I tried freaking hard and I always try to do it the best I can while being safe.