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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
Ozymandias trip report (on Supertopo)... 27-Mar-2017 At 11:08:09 PM simey
Message
On 27/03/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>It turned out to be a double delight reading that simey actually condescended
>to aid climbing after so many years of disparaging it!
>Heh, heh, heh.

I've aid soloed Ozy many, many years ago and done enough other aiding to know that it is not my favourite thing.

As for the other comments on Ozy. I actually felt like it could do with a bit of a fix-up. Clipping some of the old bolts and pegs (many of which are almost 50 years old) feels like pot luck. If one of those pieces blows then it might turn what is a straightforward piece of aiding into something seriously more difficult. I think the route already has got a tad harder in the 25 years since I last did it (I didn't need cam hooks last time).

I also felt the original route heading up the nice corner one pitch above Big Grassy might be better served by having its belay station a bit lower as opposed to the totally hanging belay in the corner.

Also, adding some belay bolts on the final ledge just below the last pitch of Ozy Direct/Lord Gumtree would seem logical as well. Clipping those bolts 15m away along that ledge seemed ridiculous.



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