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TR: Alive in a Bitter Sea (Katoomba Cliifs) 14-Dec-2016 At 7:45:36 AM rowan

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On 12/12/2016 simey wrote:

>I haven't done The Dreaming (23), but I have done Substance Abuse (24)
>next door which I thought was a great route route. Both routes were established
>by Ferret (Ian Anger), so I am guessing they are bolted in a similar vein.
>To quote from the Buffalo guide, "Ian was one of the original visionaries
>who, in the 80s, introduced the quaint idea of good quality, reasonably
>spaced bolts".
>
>I understand that the first pitch of The Dreaming at grade 21 is a bit
>run-out and I occasionally have heard of good climbers getting a bit scared
>on it. But I also know some pretty average climbers who have led it fine.
>It is obviously a pitch that requires one to be feeling solid in their
>slab climbing technique before launching up it. Given the number of ascents
>it has had, it is obviously a route that appeals to competent slab climbers
>but without being bolted for the lowest common denominator.
>
>Overall it looks and sounds great. I just need to get my shit together
>to lead it, but at least rapping and working the moves from above aren't
>considered a pre-requisite before jumping on it.
>
>
I'm sure they are similar. The point being is it is a style not everyone would be comfortable with. I think it is a sliding scale is all. And deciding at what point of grey black turns to white is always different for different people. I personally see Warwick's routes as a challenge to do ground up still. There are not many routes like that around for the opportunity of that experience. Even to go up and back off. Some of the best climbing experiences don't always result in success. It really is something for me to aspire to. To be able to read the wall well enough to take myself up and decide when to call it or continue.

The Blue Mountains have oodles of clip ups. Warwick's routes don't take up much space. I would hate to see routes like that retroed for the dumbing down of the experience.

But... you know. Climbing has no real rules. People can add bolts, people can chop bolts out. people can chip new holds or fill holds in. I think leaving routes of every style would be a good thing though.