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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Topic Date User
TR: Alive in a Bitter Sea (Katoomba Cliifs) 13-Dec-2016 At 11:13:30 PM mikllaw
Message
It's fairly clear at either end of the spectrum of ethics; from on-sight ground up (which normally results in ground up and spat out) to consumer rap bolted classic.

All situations in between are a moire of action and the intent, for instance either:-

Iron Lady - (Action - rapped with a bolt to keep the rope in) (Intent-ground up bold hell)
or
Alive in a sea of bitter - (Action- sparsely bolted from above) (Intent - meaningful commitment)

can be seen in so many different ways depending on your philosophy/cynicism.

These routes would be regarded very differently if they were in Europe, USA, Oz, or UK (assuming there was 100m wall of perfect rock available there)

Ultimately you've got to follow your dream, even if it means the reality is similar to some very different dream. I recently head-pointed a little (you can see most of the placements from nearby tree) trad route with much fiddling on abseil, but with a good reading glasses and 2 grades I could have sussed the gear and done it ground up. My dream was a rare trad route on good rock, but it looks like a top rope suss. I assume most routes will be misunderstood.

As the general ethic in the mountains is to equip routes for an onsight, the echo wall routes are a bit out of the norm, but they may be a new norm for a tiny number of different fools.

(disclaimer- i believe in punters voting with their chalk, but alternate views are welcome)

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