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TR: Alive in a Bitter Sea (Katoomba Cliifs) 12-Dec-2016 At 10:20:52 PM simey

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On 12/12/2016 rowan wrote:
>On 10/12/2016 simey wrote:
>
>>I am all for the variety of climbing experiences, but I won't deny my
>>dislike for contrived boldness. It's easy to rap inspect and then bolt
>>scary, run-out routes, but who are you kidding?
>>
>What is your opinion on The Dreaming at Mount Buffalo? Does it cross the
>line into contrived boldness? I feel that thing is bolted perfectly. Bolted
>on abseil but can be safely onsighted. I found it most memorable. One of
>my favorite routes due to the style.

I haven't done The Dreaming (23), but I have done Substance Abuse (24) next door which I thought was a great route route. Both routes were established by Ferret (Ian Anger), so I am guessing they are bolted in a similar vein. To quote from the Buffalo guide, "Ian was one of the original visionaries who, in the 80s, introduced the quaint idea of good quality, reasonably spaced bolts".

I understand that the first pitch of The Dreaming at grade 21 is a bit run-out and I occasionally have heard of good climbers getting a bit scared on it. But I also know some pretty average climbers who have led it fine. It is obviously a pitch that requires one to be feeling solid in their slab climbing technique before launching up it. Given the number of ascents it has had, it is obviously a route that appeals to competent slab climbers but without being bolted for the lowest common denominator.

Overall it looks and sounds great. I just need to get my shit together to lead it, but at least rapping and working the moves from above aren't considered a pre-requisite before jumping on it.